Malta Island

Here are some travel tips for Malta:

Valletta, Malta: I stayed at the Osborne Hotel, a three-star hotel which is centrally located in Valletta. Check out the positive reviews for this hotel, praising its great location, wonderful breakfast, roof-top terrace and amenable staff. From the hotel, a five-minute walk takes you to the central bus station where, for just over $10 Canadian, you get a one-week bus pass. Buses depart from this central station all day long to all the important tourist sites on the island. It is hardly worth it to rent a car here on Malta with such a practical service to get around.

The history of Malta is fascinating with several centuries of it related to the Knights of St. John.

The Knights of St. John did not originate on Malta. The order was founded in Jerusalem in the 11th century. After the fall of Jerusalem in the late 13th century the Knights built an island fortress on Rhodes, after their defeat by the Ottomans in 1522 they arrived in Malta in 1530. The Knights of St. John, in exchange for one Maltese falcon per year, were allowed to occupy the Maltese Islands by Roman Emperor Charles V. The Great Siege of 1565 occurred in Valletta with the invasion by the Turks. The Knights of St. John won this incredible battle even though they were outnumbered.

The order of the Knights of St. John fell into decline in the 17th and 18th centuries and in 1798 they were ousted by the French. The Knights of St. John continue to function mainly as a charitable organization with branches throughout the world. You will find many places throughout the islands related to the Knights of St. John and their history.

More facts about Malta: Human settlement dates back to about 5200 BC and maybe as early as 7200 BC in the Ghar Dalam Caves. Malta is also home to a fascinating temple that goes back to 3600 BC.

During World War 11 Malta  was the most bombed place on earth when 6,700 tons fell in six weeks. The brave Maltese were all awarded the George Cross in 1942 for heroism and bravery.

Where to stay in Valletta and what to do on the Island

I stayed at the Osborne Hotel, a centrally located, three-star hotel. Check out the positive reviews for this hotel, praising its great location, wonderful breakfast, roof-top terrace and amenable staff. I advise staying in Valletta for several reasons. From the hotel, for example, a five-minute walk takes you to the central bus station where, for just over $10 Canadian, you get a one-week bus pass. Buses depart from this central station all day long to all the important tourist sites on the island. It is hardly worth it to rent a car here on Malta with such a practical service to get around. Plus, in Valletta itself there are so many not-to-be-missed historical sites:

St. John’s Co-Cathedral, is considered to be one of the finest examples of high Baroque architecture in Europe and one of the world’s great cathedrals. It still belongs to the Knights of Malta; it has the famous painting “the beheading of St. John the Baptist” by Caravaggio; 400 knights are buried there.

Go on a treasure hunt of the seven original Auberges in Vallettta that housed the various “Langues” of the Order of the Knights of St. John. The Auberge de Castile currently houses the offices for the government of Malta and the offices of the Prime Minister; it originally housed the langue of Castile, León  and Portugal. What was originally the Auberge d’Italie is now the site of the Grandmaster’s Palace on St. George’s Square and houses the Office of the President of Malta and the House of Representatives, as well as being a heritage site run by Heritage Malta. Part of it is The Armoury, which runs the width of the back of the palace and houses one of the finest collections of weapons of the period of the Knights of Malta, including spears, swords, shields and heavy armour.

The National Museum of Archaeology is housed in what was the Auberge de Provence, a fine example of Baroque architecture, it was built in 1571. The Lower and Upper Barrakka Gardens where you have wonderful views of the harbour. The Old Hospice built by the Knights of St. John in Valletta

Take a ride in a dgħajsa (pronounced dysa in Maltese) a traditional water taxi, to tour the harbour. The design of the Dgħajsa possibly dates back to Phoenician times.
Our Lady of Victory Church was the first building completed in Valletta, built and funded by Grand Master Jean de Valette to celebrate the victory over the Turks in 1565.
The Old Hospice built by knights of St. John. The National Museum of Fine Arts is Malta’s major museum for the visual arts. It houses a collection of works by Maltese and foreign artists mainly representing the major European artistic styles.

Outside of Valletta

An absolute must is a visit to the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum (in a town called Paolo, a bus from Valletta will take you there) an underground burial chamber carved from solid rock and built starting in 3600 BC. Visitors must reserve well in advance to visit this chamber, as it is limited to a few groups per day.The ‘Sleeping Lady’ dating back to 3000 BC was found here and is on display in the National Museum of Archaeology. Tarxien Temple site also in Paola consist of a complex of four megalithic structures built between 3600 and 2500 BC. Discovered in 1913 by local farmers, the site was extensively excavated between 1915 and 1919,

Temple Site Hagar Qim Temple site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed as part of ‘The Megalithic Temples of Malta’. Another nearby temple site is the Mnajdra Temple. All these sites are “an outstanding example of a type of building which illustrates a significant stage in human history.”

A visit to Mdina, a fortress city, walled off by the Arabs, is Malta’s most hauntinhgly beautiful city, the site of St. Paul/s Cathedral. The beautiful Blue Grotto is a number of sea caverns on the south coast of Malta in the village of Qrendi.

Marsaxlokk is a traditional fishing village located in the south-eastern part of Malta and known for its large Sunday Market which takes place around the whole village, a great place to visit. There are over 360 churches and chapels scattered throughout the islands, a church for every day of the year.

The Għar Dalam caves has a history of their lowermost layers that date more than 500,000 years old, contained in the fossil bones of dwarf elephants, hippopotami, micro-mammals and birds among other species.  The top layer, or ‘cultural layer’, shows the earliest evidence of human settlement on Malta, 7,400 years ago.

Hotel, El Iberostar Mehari Djerba

 

 

El Iberostar Mehari is a four-star hotel located on the east coast of Djerba Island in the tourist zone where many of Djerba’s hotels are found.

Mehari Iberostar has much going for it from the point of view of well appointed, clean, comfortable rooms; decor is a modern, international style. The grounds and buildings are extremely well maintained. An outdoor pool is unheated, and like most at other hotels is not used much until the water heats up sometime in mid-March, but to balance the lack of an outdoor pool during the cooler months, there is a heated indoor pool that has a very pleasant ambience filled with light.

Facilities include tennis courts, boulodromes for petanque, (a game that originated in France where players or teams play their “boules” towards a target ball), an archery court and a space for occasional dance lessons and Zumba by the outdoor pool. A spa centre offers a Hammam (steam room), and services such as massage, body wraps with seaweed, facials, manicures and pedicures, etc.

An animation team runs many programs, for both adults and children during the day and evening which I will explain further on in this entry.

A tasty and abundant choice of food, served buffet style, replicates the typical Mediterranean diet with lots of fresh fruit and vegetables.

Where Iberostar could improve is with first impressions as guests arrive for their stay, meaning that a genuine sense of welcome would go a long way. There is no doubt that the reception staff is professional at their work, this is not in question. And once I got to know several of the reception desk staff they were charming and helpful, freely offering their time with computer and administrative issues, and this is when their warm personalities came through. Communication of facilities and programs to new guests would be helpful, perhaps an information session?

Grounds and buildings of El Iberostar Mehari:

 

 

Delicious food is a top priority that contributes to an enjoyable stay. El Iberostar Mehari comes up with spades in this department.

 

 

The many activities available at El Iberostar Mehari are often led by a member of the animation team. They include aqua-gym, fitness, organized walks, yoga, archery, petanque, Zumba and some dance. I notice the animation team doing more outreach with guests to encourage participation. As well there are tennis courts and horseback riding organized by the hotel. One animator offers many programs specifically for children during the day and early evening.

 

 

At the hotel’s beach there are camels and horses to ride, rented by individuals independent from the hotel. The beach offers long stretches for walks and where one can see fishing boats in the distance. On the main road there are caleches to hire.

 

 

The animation team offers nightly entertainment including dancing, skits and karaoke. I must also add that all members of the animation team are terrific dancers, many of them self taught. They get guests up and dancing which makes for great fun, and for me was delightful.

 

 

The hardworking animation team:

 

 

Some personnel from the hotel including Anis Chemli, general manager, David, assistant manager, my favourite waiter, bartenders.

 

 

It’s great to make new acquaintances:

 

 

And having new experiences, such as making hummus with the chef at the El Iberostar Mehari.

 

 

Bardo Museum

The Bardo Museum has the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world and traces the history of Tunisia through its vast collection of mosaics, statues and other artifacts. It’s collection of mosaics comes from many sites throughout Tunisia including Carthage, Dougga and Utica. It also houses many  marble statues that come from Tunisian sites such as Carthage and Thuburbo Majus. The collection in nothing short of breathtaking.

Tunis Medina

Like most Medinas, the section with shops or “souks” is bustling with activity, the residential area is much quieter and makes up 90% of the Medina, the remaining 10% is made up of shops. Historically, a Medina was surrounded by a wall, but the Tunis one no longer has walls around it. The Tunis Medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

Within the Tunis Medina you will find palaces, mosques, libraries, historic buildings…and lots of cats. The souk part of the Medina is divided into areas for leather, clothing, pastries, breads, essential oils, herbs, lamps, metal items, carpets, olives, fruits and vegetables, etc. If you can’t find it in the Medina, you probably don’t need it!

One of the most distinctive features of the residential section of the Medina are the decorative doors, painted different colours, with various designs created by the use of black metal studs. The designs created by the metal studs tell the story of the people who live behind them. Blue and yellow seem to be popular colours in Tunis, but there are other colours used as well. Many have a door knocker in the shape of the “Hand of Fatima”, a symbol used to protect against the evil eye. The layout of the interior of the house has a distinct pattern with a central courtyard and rooms going off from this central core. I love wandering through the Medina!

 

 

Varanasi

One of my most moving experiences was going on a boat ride on the Ganges to experience the cremation of bodies in the evening. It was moving because it is a ceremony that goes back centuries and is so much a part of Hindu religious belief and culture. While out on the Ganges, everyone on our tour group put small candles onto the river to remember people close to us who had passed away.

We returned to the River Ganges early in the next morning before dawn to see the sun rise over the waters of the Ganges. It is one of the most beautiful sites I’ve ever seen. I hope my photos capture this incredible experience.

Varansi, on the banks of the Ganges in North India, is one of the oldest cities in the world. Archaeological remains dating back to the year 1200 BC have been found at Varansi. Varanasi was important for both Hinduism and Buddhism and both appeared to coexist peacefully.

It is the holiest of the seven holy cities in India. Death in Varanasi brings Hindus salvation (moksha). This means the cycle of reincarnation ends and you go directly to heaven.

There are about 200 Hindu funerals (cremations) per day at Varanasi at various ghats along the Ganges River. Ghats in Varanasi are riverfront steps leading to the banks of the River Ganges. Most were rebuilt after 1700 AD. The city has about 88 ghats, most of which are for bathing and ceremonies, while two ghats are used exclusively as cremation sites, where the bodies are burned and the ashes thrown into the Ganges.

Cremation is extremely important to Hindus. They believe it releases the individual’s spiritual essence from the transitory physical body so it can be reborn. If not done, the soul will be disturbed and not find its way to its proper place in the afterlife and come back and haunt living relatives. Fire is chosen as the method to dispose of the dead because of its association with purity and its power to scare away harmful ghosts, demons and spirits.

 

Delhi, India

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  My trip to India was a 10-day tour (small group of 14 people) with Sinorama, a tour company I …

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Casablanca

Casablanca, made famous by the film by the same name certainly has a romantic ring to it, but does not have much in the way of a tourist destination. Casablanca is Morocco’s chief port, on the Atlantic Ocean, and one of the largest financial centers on the continent, and is considered the economic and business centre of Morocco with main industrial facilities located here. It has a population of about 4 million.

A big focal point, and something I visited, in Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque, designed by the French architect Michel Pinseau. It is the third largest mosque in the world, accommodating 25,000 people on the inside and another 80,000 in the outside courtyard. Its minaret is 690 feet tall, the tallest in the world and faces Mecca. It was an amazing place to visit. One very interesting feature was a sliding roof that opened up to the sky above.

Hassan II mosque in Casablanca

Marrakech Medina

A highlight of the tour in Morocco was visiting the famed Marrakech, another city that has a romantic ring to it. It is a city with a great amount of hustle and bustle, horse-drawn carriages mixing with regular traffic, mosques, gardens and a very interesting medina.  It is the fourth largest city in Morocco after Casablanca, Fes and Tangiers. The highlight of visiting Marrakech was a visit to its Medina, with its vendors, terrace-topped restaurants, souks lined along narrow walkways and snake charmers in an area outside the maze-like area.

Magnificent Morocco

Our G Adventures Group left Spain behind to go on to spend a week in Morocco. First stop was Tangiers, after crossing the strait of Gibraltar, a narrow strait that separates Spain from Morocco. Once in Tangiers our group had a guided tour through the local Medina. I really enjoyed this tour, as the medina centres on the life of the community, there are several “essentials” in a Medina, a school, a Mosque, a well supplying water, shops and places to buy food. I think I remembered everything!

Ubiquitous pita bread in the Tangier market

From Tangiers we drove to Chefchaouen, founded in 1471 and located in the northwest of Morocco in the Rif mountains. The name of this town refers to the surrounding mountaintops that resemble the two horns of a goat (“Chef Chaouen” comes from the Berber word for horns). It was a festive day in Chefchaouen, as it was school holiday time and many families were taking time off to visit this site with its mountainside mosque.

Sunset over Chefchaouen

As our group climbed the towards the mosque, the sun was slowly dipping down below the horizon, spreading a lovely faint glow over the town of Chefchaouen, and just above, at the top of the hill at the mosque, I could see the silhouettes of people, captured in the sun’s diminishing light. It was a lovely site to behold, calm yet joyful as I observed the daylight slowly fade on this beautiful scene and encountered many people on this narrow, rocky pathway soaking up the tranquility and enjoyment of the moment.

From Chefchaouen, we went on to Fes in Northeaster Morocco, where we stayed two nights. The drive between Chfchaouen and Fes was full of green fields, in fact, I was surprised to see how green Morocco was at this time of year. The countryside was coming alive with the spring and the crops were coming up.

Fes is often referred to as the country’s cultural capital and particularly known for its Medina of Fes, Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, surrounded by a wall and founded in the 9th century, it is home to the oldest university in the world, the University of Al-Karaouine. It is reputed to have 9,000 streets and believed to be the largest car-free urban area in the world—we were cautioned not to venture in the medina ourselves, as we were sure to become lost, however, I believe in getting lost, so if I had been on my own, I probably would have ventured in, perhaps part of the time with a guide.

View of Fez’s famous medina from a local hilltop

Fez Medina

It is brimming with medieval architecture, souks of every kind offering clothing, leather goods, wooden products, food stuff of every kind from dates nuts and pastries, to meat products., in fact various sections of the medina carry various wares such as the food area, leather, clothing. It is a hub of activity that I found totally amazing.

From Fes we took a train to Casablanca where we visited an incredible mosque. Although Casablanca has a romantic ring to it, it’s not that interesting as a tourist destination. It is a seaside city, so one can walk along the boardwalk, along the sea, but the mosque there is a site to behold. It has a sliding roof that opens up the mosque to the sky above. is the largest city in Morocco, located in the central-western part of the country bordering the Atlantic Ocean. It is the largest city in the Maghreb, as well as one of the largest and most important cities in Africa, both economically and demographically.

Casablanca, made famous by the film by the same name certainly has a romantic ring to it, but does not have much in the way of a tourist destination. Casablanca is Morocco’s chief port, on the Atlantic Ocean, and one of the largest financial centers on the continent, and is considered the economic and business centre of Morocco with main industrial facilities located here. It has a population of about 4 million.

A big focal point, and something I visited, in Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque, designed by the French architect Michel Pinseau. It is the third largest mosque in the world, accommodating 25,000 people on the inside and another 80,000 in the outside courtyard. Its minaret is 690 feet tall, the tallest in the world and faces Mecca. It was an amazing place to visit. One very interesting feature was a sliding roof that opened up to the sky above.

Hassan II mosque in Casablanca

Marrakech Medina

A highlight of the tour in Morocco was visiting the famed Marrakech, another city that has a romantic ring to it. It is a city with a great amount of hustle and bustle, horse-drawn carriages mixing with regular traffic, mosques, gardens and a very interesting medina.  It is the fourth largest city in Morocco after Casablanca, Fes and Tangiers. The highlight of visiting Marrakech was a visit to its Medina, with its vendors, terrace-topped restaurants, souks lined along narrow walkways and snake charmers in an area outside the maze-like area.

Charming Granada

A Bit About Granada

Granada is the capital city of the province of Granada and located at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It has a much smaller population than Madrid and Barcelona(half a million which includes the urban population) and for this reason it made an interesting contrast after having visited two of Spain’s largest cities.

Local architecture with cathedral roof in the background with both Gothic and Baroque influences.

 Where We Stayed and Local Sites

Our hotel in Granada, the Hotel Pilar, located on Plaza Nueva, was very centrally located and close to the Moorish neighborhood of Albaicin (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), cafes,  restaurants, the cathedral, the Old Arab Market, shops and banks and the many winding pedestrian walkways which are so interesting to explore. My philosophy is to not be afraid of getting lost in this labyrinth of small streets, as you’re bound to make some interesting discoveries along the way, and you’re never far from the main thoroughfare in the core of the historic area.

One morning I got up early to wander through the Albaicin neighbourhood. It was an interesting experience to see the area come alive with people walking their dogs, school kids going to school, the sound of classical piano music being practised. Experiencing this makes you feel part of the community. A friendly “Buenos Dias” doesn’t hurt either…

Arab market at night.

A section of the Alhambra palace complex.

Another part of the Alhambra Palace complex.

Granada is particularly known for its architecture that dates back to the Moorish occupation, especially of the Alhambra, which our group had a guided tour of. I was mesmerized by the detailed and beautiful work of the Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is a palace and fortress complex.

More of the Alhambra complex

It was originally constructed in 889 AD as a fortress, then rebuilt in the 13th century by Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar, who built the current palace and walls. It later became the court for  Ferdinand and Isabella, and where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition. The Alhambra is described as having the most important and significant Islamic architecture in Spain.

The Tapas Experience in Granada

Raucous Tapas Bar

Tapas bars are raucous and lively places to visit. One evening in Granada our group did a “Tapas Pub Crawl”. I certainly had an education on how to order in a Tapas Bar, first, make eye contact, and yell out what you want, then to get some free tapas that come with your drink, again, make sure you’re making eye contact with the waiter serving your section, and indicate through finger pointing or whatever means works what kind of tapas you want, then if you want to order more from the menu, step up to the bar and be seen and be heard! It’s no place to be a shrinking violet!

Scenes Around Granada

Famous Seville oranges growing on the streets of Granada

Typical pots with plants on balconies.

Some members of  the G Adventures Tour Group with the Alhambra in the background — a happy group!

After several members of our group walked through the Albaicin area, we reached the Mirador San Nicolas lookout point and got a tremendous view of the Alhambra as the sun was starting to set. A big crowd was there to see the view, plus we had flamenco music being played by several guitarists.

Plaza Nueva at night, Hotel Pilar not far from here where are group stayed.

Preparing to get on the fast speed grain from Madrid to Granada

Marvellous Madrid

A Bit About Madrid

Madrid is Spain’s central capital and a very large city (metropolitan area population is 6.5 million), but its historical core is very easy to get around and quite compact in terms of seeing the major sites, including the Royal Palace, Prado Art Gallery, Plaza Mayor, the Sofyia National Art Gallery and the Almudena Cathedral.

Royal Palace

What I saw and did in Madrid.

The Royal Palace is the official residence of the royal family, but it is only used for state functions. It was originally built by Muhammad I between 1860 and 1880, but came under Castilian control in the 11th century when the moors were driven out.

Royal Palace

While in Madrid, our group stayed at the Europa Hotel on Plaza Sol, and from that location, everything was within walking distance to the major sites mentioned above.

Plaza de Espana with statue of Don Quixote and side kick Sancho

Pedestrian walkway with flowering trees.

As well, near the hotel there were many lovely pedestrian walkways for shopping, for example, the well known brand Desigual, had a shop not far away. I love much of the clothing, particularly their jeans, which often have some bold design on them.

Viviana, our G Adventures Guide

 

Our G Adventures guide, Viviana, gave us all maps for the local area, highlighting the major sites, and gave us a short orientation of Madrid and how to get around.

 

 

 

 

Enjoying Tapas

We started our adventure in Madrid by going to a local restaurant for a meal of “tapas.” How does one define tapas? They can be a variety of small plates consisting of  a whole range of different items including vegetables, olives, meatballs, cheeses, fish or marinated items, and that’s just scratching the surface! The most fun is sharing tapas, commenting on the various taste sensations, enjoying a drink along with them whether it be wine, beer, vermouth, water, or a soft drink. And most important is enjoying the camaraderie of this lovely group of travellers who I will be travelling with for the next two weeks.

 

Thickest hot chocolate you can imagine with churros.

A not-to-be-missed treat in Spain is churros and a thick hot chocolate. The delicious chocolate is so thick you can dip the churros into it! The melding of flavours is delicious…

 

 

 

 

Mounted Patrol in Madrid

Plaza Mayor, large central square in Madrid

Plaza de la Ville, one of the oldest plazas in the city, going back to the middle ages.

Vibrant Barcelona

Arriving in Barcelona

Although I’ve been to Barcelona several years ago, it’s the first time I’ve arrived by plane. As we flew into Barcelona, it seemed we were making a direct approach over the city to the airport, then quite suddenly the plane veered off over the ocean, and started to descend, actually, very close to the water, so close in fact, I was wondering if there was a problem and we had to make an emergency landing into the ocean. Nothing was out of the ordinary, we landed on the runway, on land. The first of many surprises in Barcelona.

About Barcelona

Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf

Barcelona is a very large city, 1.7 million in the administrative limits, but if you include the urban area it jumps to 4.6 million, making it the 6th most populous urban area in the European Union. More than 5 million people live in the metropolitan area, the largest on the Mediterranean Sea. Enough about population size, I just wanted to make a point about how large the city is, but how friendly its inhabitants are in spite of the size of the population, that is, from my experience. Interestingly, the first day I was here I had people approaching me for directions! I must have been starting to blend into the local milieu.

Here’s just one experience I had the first day. I went into a shop near the “Palau de la Musica Catalana” situated near the quaint Born district of old Barcelona, an area full of narrow, winding pedestrian walkways, small shops and boutiques, cafes and restaurants. As I was browsing in the boutique I got talking to the salesperson who was so friendly and who ended up giving me all kinds of tourist tips, where to eat, where to find a good flamenco show, be ready to go early to the major sites to avoid the long line-ups, in short some of the best advice I received during my stay in Barcelona. And it was given in such an exuberant and friendly manner. So my impression of Barcelona began with that encounter and it didn’t change for over three days of visiting.

Where I stayed

Pedestrian walkway at Arc de Triomf

While in Barcelona, for my first three nights, I stayed at Lodging Apartments City Centre on Arago Avenue. Accommodation was a small apartment, very modern, very clean, with a kitchen and living room/eating area. Staff occupied an office on the ground floor and were there to greet me when I arrived. They are there from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm during the week, and 10:00 am till 2:00 pm on weekends. As a single, senior traveller I felt very secure in the building. The staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful, so I can recommend Lodging Apartments. These apartments are also very close to some of the major sites such as Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera, Picasso Museum, Palau de la Musica Catalana, Barcelona Cathedral and Parc de la Ciutadella. I would say no more than a 20-minute walk to any of these places, but I’m a pretty fast walker!

Where I ate: Cafe Buho, at 84 Saint Joan

Delicious meal at Cafe Buho–chicken with artichokes

And how lucky I was to find a lovely restaurant just a few minutes walk from my apartment, called Cafe Buho, at 84 Saint Joan. The first time I ate there was on my second day for lunch when I had a mushroom soup and hummus with toasted bread, and even though this was a simple meal, it was delicious, and I was hooked. Interestingly I had made a connection with one of the waiters the night before as I was coming back to my apartment, I wasn’t sure where I was, it’s interesting how things can look quite different at night, compared to daytime, after all it was my first day here. The waiter took the time to show me where I was and how to get to my apartment. It turns out I was only a few minutes away. But it was the courtesy of that waiter that compelled me to go back for my first lunch there, one more example of the kindness of the local people.

My two suppers there included a chicken dish with both roasted and pureed artichoke hearts, with salad greens, and a risotto with eggplant and apple puree. As well as an extensive menu of entrees (smoked salmon, vegetarian burger, beef and other choices) they have several appetizers to choose from including a nice selection of cheeses. They also offer delicious fruit drinks, for example a “Virgin Mojito” with mint and apple juice or strawberry drink with various other juices. I enjoyed every dish I tried. My sense is that their menu selections have a creative and fresh “twist” and are geared towards healthy but delicious taste sensations.

What did I visit in Barcelona?

Sagrada Familia

Exterior of Sagrada Familia

Interior of Sagrada Familia

This is Antoni Gaudi’s church still in the making. Antoni Gaudi is Barcelona’s most famous architect and his work is seen throughout Barcelona. Gaudi spent 40 years of his life as the main architect of the this building. It is the 8th wonder of the world in the making as evidenced by the cranes and the workmen one sees tied by safety ropes and working on the exterior of the church. It is estimated the work will be finished in 2026, the 100th anniversary of the death of Gaudi. Of the 18 spires originally planned only eight have been built. Their completion will make this church the tallest church building in the world.

Gaudi used a revolutionary art form called “trencadis” tiling which consisted of smashing up ceramics and making mosaic patterns out of them. Examples of this type of work on the spires at Sagrada Familia, at Parc Guell and on some of the chimneys at La Pedrera.

La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry)

Exterior of La Pedrera

Roof-top chimneys at Pedrera

Another of Gaudi’s works, this unique building was completed in 1912, an apartment block so imaginative and fanciful, that truly shows his creative genius. On the rooftop are chimneys resembling warrior helmets and marshmallow-like ventilator ducts. The front of the building has a wave-like design and a flow to the wrought iron balconies, everything he did was so unique in design. The building holds the offices of a centre dedicated to Gaudi and apartments.

Roof-top chimney at La Pedrera

Palau de la Musica Catalana

Concert Hall of Palau de la Musica Catalana

It is a concert hall designed by architect Lluis Domenech Montaner and built between 1905 and 1908, a miracle really when one sees the building. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The guide who led us through the building said that there are over 300 concerts per year. The concert hall was designed so that natural light comes through the numerous stained glass windows on the sides, and in the ceiling is a magnificent stained glass skylight that allows sunlight to permeate the entire hall. One feels joyful and uplifted with the tremendous light coming in in all directions.

Balcony with mosaic pillars at Palau de la Musica Catalana

Another highlight of the building is the front balcony with its stained glass windows and rows of brightly coloured mosaic pillars.

Parc de la Ciutadella

Cascading Fountain in Parc de la Ciutadella

Built in the 1860s, this park is a place of calm against the hustle and bustle of urban Barcelona. Highlights of the park include a man-made lake where you can rent a row boat, and an intriguing Baroque-style cascading fountain with cherubs, winged lions and nymph-like statues throughout.

Walking through this park, I felt that I had time-travelled back to the 1960s and the hippie days. Many individuals strumming guitars and other instruments, and some people juggling or walking a tight rope. Oh, the good old days.

Other Sites

La Rambla

Other sites I experienced:La Rambla is a one-kilometre pedestrian walk-way starting near the port at the statue of Christopher Columbus. It’s lined with restaurants, souvenir shops, flower shops, caricaturists and buskers.

 

 

 

Barcelona Cathedral

I also visited Barcelona’s Gothic Cathedral and a highlight for me was Picasso Museum which traces Picasso’s life as an artist. It boasts the most extensive collection of his earlier work, some painted at the early age of 10. It was fascinating to learn the stages of his life’s work as an artist, what influenced him and how this impacted on his work.

I’m planning to visit Parc Guell tomorrow, another example of Gaudi’s influential and whimsical work. Tomorrow in the evening I meet up with my group tour with G Adventures. And tomorrow at 9:30 pm I have the great honour of attending a flamenco performance in Palau de la Musica Catalana.

Decorative portion of roof-top of Paula de Musica Catalana

Spa Day at Eugenia Victoria Hotel

My Last Day at Playa del Ingles

One of the pools at the Wellness Centre at Eugenia Victoria

What better way to prepare for more travelling than to take a spa day? Today is my last day at Eugenia Victoria Hotel and Playa del Ingles. What I particularly love about this hotel is the Vital Wellness Centre where you will find several hot pools with jets, a Dead Sea Pool, Whirlpools, and two saunas, one steam or Roman style and one dry, or Finnish style.

Here at the wellness centre you can also get various special treatments, including those involving wine or Chocolate! Those treatments sound particularly yummy!

Relaxation room used before and after treatments.

 

Graciela giving me a massage

Graciela is the person at the Wellness Centre who does the massage therapy. I was very impressed to learn that she has well over 30 years experience doing massage. She also does Reicki. While staying at Eugenia Victoria I had several massages with her and was very pleased with the outcome. As well as offering a “Classic” massage, she also offers specialized ones that target the back and shoulders or tired legs, or for anti-stress (in my mind all massages are anti-stress!), hot stone massage, chocolate massage, foot reflexology, a Hammam massage with oil and some others to boot.

Also, they have body wraps such as seaweed or mud applications or a Cleopatra Bath. Now there’s an intriguing treatment.

The Cleopatra Bath, photo credit, Stefanie

I had scheduled a “classic” massage today with Graciela and I was considering a skin treatment, something that would add a bit of a glow to my skin which had seen a lot of the sun and tends to be dry. Graciela recommended the Cleopatra bath as the best option for me. Now I had heard that Cleopatra liked to take milk baths, so I was intrigued to find out what was involved in the one offered at the Wellness Centre.

 

Relaxed and happy in the Cleopatra Bath, Photo credit, Stefanie

It turns out that you get “wrapped” in a cloth with milk and almond oil, two known things to nourish the skin. You are then further “wrapped” to allow the milk and almond oil to penetrate the skin and work their magic. The lights are dimmed and soft music wafts through the air. I went into a state of complete relaxation — didn’t take much to get there!

Massage room for Hammam style massage.

 

It has been a very pleasant stay at the hotel. The staff here are very friendly and kind. They truly contributed to making my stay here a very enjoyable one. I recommend the hotel to anyone who is looking for a comfortable hotel with good, satisfying meals, a ten-minute walk to the beach and many services close by, including shopping and food market. The hotel offers a shuttle bus to the beach.

Here at Eugenia Victoria Hotel, nightly entertainment includes many different types of shows, including flamenco, acrobatics, impersonations, singing and even bingo on some evenings. Outdoors, around the pool area, there is a singer every night. There is a large lounge area, an indoor bar and several outside bars around the pool area.

Tomorrow, I must awake at 3:30 am to take a taxi at 4:00 am to the Las Palmas airport. My flight to Barcelona is at 7:00 am. I’m hoping that Cafe de Paris will have some of my favourite danishes left, so I can bring one on the flight. The next time you hear from me I will be in Barcelona, refreshed from my spa day and ready to explore this interesting city.

 

 

 

Carnival Time at Playa del Ingles

A Week of Celebrations, March 3rd to the 12th

After a week of celebrations in Playa del Ingles including election of the carnival queen, senior queen and drag queen; carnival for children; many performances; parties and an interesting event called “The Reading of the Sardines’ Last Will,” the carnival is over!

 

A huge event was the Carnival Parade on Saturday that involved over 100 floats– it started at 5:00 pm and went on to at least 10:00 pm. What a raucous, fun, music filled and colouful parade it was. The main theme for costumes this year were related to the “Hippie” era of the 1960s and “Pirates”.

 

I attended this parade that seemed to go on forever, and luckily it passed right in front of my hotel, The Eugenia Victoria.

Flower Power!

So here are a bunch of photos to give you insight into this most colourful and fun-filled event. The Spanish love to dress up, dance and generally have a good time. Of course there were many visitors as well

taking part in the festivities.

 

 

More Flower Power!

Peace and Love

Pirates getting ready for the parade.

Did I mention pirates??

Eskimo in the Canaries?

How does he walk on those shoes?

Would you like this rose?

Lots of happy faces.

Castro in the Canaries?

I had fun too!!

Out and About in Playa del Ingles

A Pictorial of Playa del Ingles

This entry is a focus on photos taken around the resort area of Playa de Ingles which falls within a larger area called Maspalomas. Maspalomas is defined as stretching to Bahia Feliz in the east, and to Meloneras in the west. It is a hot +31C today. The locals say it is actually hotter than the norm which would be about +22 to 26C.

Man holding onto motorbike — how does he do it?

This photo was taken at Faro de Maspalomas, near the lighthouse, about a five kilometre walk from Playa del Ingles. This is a real person holding on to the rear of a motorbike. How does he do it??

Floating on air?

There are many people like this dressed up in costume and standing stock-still. When you pass by them, they might wink, or gesture with their hand, apart from that they don’t move. Some are in very heavy costumes so I don’t know how they stand it in the heat! They have certainly earned the few coins that people give them.

Hockey gear in the Canaries?

As I was walking away from the Yumbo Shopping Centre one day, I came upon this mannequin dressed in hockey gear. No, I said to myself, they can’t possibly be selling hockey gear in the Canaries. I had to investigate.This model of a hockey player was advertising hockey games that were being shown at The Red Cow and Shenanigans Sports Bar in Playa del Ingles. From what I understood of the advertisement, it was hockey from the Scandinavian countries. Hope there were no “shenanigans” going on!

 

Dancing at the Kasbah

One of the things I love going to in the evenings is the Kasbah, about a five-minute walk from the Eugenia Victoria Hotel. The Kasbah is a complex of shops and restaurants, but at its centre is an open-area square where people can dance. There’s music there every night, sometimes live.I went there last year and this year, I notice some of the same people up on the dance floor and some putting on quite a show. There’s one couple who mimicks a bull and matador, quite entertaining, and the crowd loves it.

Colourful beach umbrellas at Playa del Ingles

From the boardwalk at Playa del Ingles, looking out over the beach and the beautiful sand dunes beyond, one of my favourite places.

Let’s not forget my favourite treat at Cafe de Paris. After a long walk on the beach or something for a mid-morning snack, there is nothing that beats a Danish and cappuccino at Cafe de Paris, a great place too for people watching.

 

Carnival Time in Maspalomas

The Maspalomas Carnival takes place from March 3rd to the 12th, and this year it is called The Euro Carnival. Many of the carnival evening activities take place onstage at the Yumbo Centre in Playa del Ingles. It is a raucous and colourful event with singing, bands, children’s performances and  dancing. The costumes are colourful, glitzy and flamboyant, and the participants are exuberant and theatrical.

Main stage for performances of the 2017 Maspalomas Euro Carnival

Senior Queen in Costume

There are also a selection of queens within various categories. For example, there is the main Carnival Queen, but also a “Senior Queen” and a Drag Queen. I attended the “Senior Queen” selection last night. It was interesting to attend an event where there were older participants vying for the prize. What a wonderful way to get everyone involved and where age is not a barrier. Tonight is the selection for the Drag Queen.

 

Three Senior Queens with singers.

 

Reflections on Ham and Cheese… and Travel

My Inspiration and Passion for Travel

My reflection on the beach at Playa del Ingles.

Back in 1972 when I was 23 years old, I decided like so many other young people at the time to travel Europe with a knapsack on my back. I worked for a year, saved up, and I was off for three months exploring most of Europe.

Many of us were inspired by a book out entitled Europe On Five Dollars A Day, I believe the book was later updated to Europe on Ten Dollars a Day! It certainly served as an inspiration for a whole generation of young Canadians and Americans, many who had finished at least one university degree, to cross the Atlantic and explore Europe.

Many, like myself, did it on the cheap. I recall sometimes taking an overnight train so we could save on a hotel! Back then I travelled with friend, I wasn’t quite ready to go it alone. These days I often travel on my own, arrange my own itineraries, hotels and flights. When I reflect on this, I figure that I wouldn’t have visited half the places I’ve been to if I had waited for someone to accompany me. As I travel, I’ve also written for several publications as well as creating Armchair Travel Programs for senior residences in Ottawa.

I had the travel bug at a young age, maybe it came from growing up in Saskatchewan, where the prairies in the south part of the province, in wheat growing country, are truly flat as a pancake. Perhaps having this long view…and of wanting to see over the next horizon was the inspiration to “look beyond,” or to explore. My brother, who is a year older, is very much like me, he loves to travel, discover new places, and is quite the adventurer in the way he travels.

The Spanish Ham and Cheese Sandwich

Grilled Ham and Cheese.

When I was travelling back in 1972 in Spain, one could find at almost cafe or restaurant a “Ham and Cheese Sandwich,” it was everywhere.And that was a good thing, based on my budget back then.It became quite a staple food item while travelling through Spain, it was cheap, easily digested and contained protein. It was even easy to say in Spanish, “Sandwich de Jamon y Queso por favor.”

 

Cheese and Tomato Sandwich

There are many variations to this simple sandwich: you can have it grilled or not with just ham;just cheese;cheese and tomato; cheese, ham and tomato; or, the last version with more vegetables, one version like this on a menu was called “Sandwich Americano.” So it seems the original sandwich has evolved somewhat. Yet, it’s interesting how some culinary traditions stay the same. As I travel around Gran Canaria, and order a Ham and Cheese Sandwich, I reflect back to that time of travelling with a knapsack on my back.

Spain, in general, is a meat eating society, here in Playa del Ingles one finds  many steak restaurants, or where meat is the main dish. So it was a surprise to run into a Vegan restaurant in Las Palmas, called Zoe Food. I remember the words in the restaurant: “Please be patient, your meal is being prepared with love,” or something to that effect, words, certainly that reflect a certain philosophy about food and how it is served. Notice also on the sign, vegetarian, organic, and choices without gluten.

More Reflections on Travel and Meeting Other Travellers

As an independent traveller it’s nice to decide your own agenda, but it’s also great to meet other travellers to share experiences with, exchange ideas and generally enjoy each other’s company. There are many opportunities for this, chance meetings in restaurants or travelling on a local bus and not quite knowing how to get to your destination with a bus driver that doesn’t speak much English. I was on my way to Aguimes on a local bus trying to figure out where I had to transfer,and which other bus to get to go to Aguimes.

It happened there were two couples on the bus with the same perplexed and anxious look as myself, when we thought the bus ride was taking longer than it should as it meandered through a town, seemingly like taking the slow boat to China. Problem was resolved however, when the bus driver let us all off at just the right location to catch the connecting bus to Aguimes, and just in the nick of time as it was just coming around the corner on the other side of the road. We all scrambled to flag him down. I ended up spending the rest of the day with a lovely couple from Normandy, Daniel and Sylvaine. Together we explored the Guayadeque Ravine, had a meal together in a cave converted to a restaurant and shared a taxi back to Playa del Ingles, rather than risking another bus ride back with connections that are fewer between, and by that time it had also started to rain. We spent other days sight seeing together, and since they were French speaking, I had the opportunity to practice my French.

Visiting Pasito Blanco with travellers I met, Daniel and Sylvaine.

Mountainous area of Gran Canaria

Another travel experience I had meeting another traveller was quite unique. I had taken the VIP Tour that I describe in my blog entry “A Tour of Gran Canaria” which took a group on a tour up to the mountains in central Gran Canaria and then further north on the island. When I got talking to a fellow traveller on the same bus, it turns out that his uncle was a Deacon in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, in the same town where I grew up in and lived from the mid-1950s to 1967. My father, who was Anglican, went to St. John’s Anglican church, the same church where this traveller’s uncle was the Deacon. Who would have thought in the mountains of Gran Canaria that two travellers would share a link to the same town in Saskatchewan, Moose Jaw!

Adelina Manuel Lopes and bike.

There are travellers and there are travellers. I met Adelina Manuel Lopes the other day while walking the boardwalk near the beach of Playa del Ingles. Adelina has travelled over 85,000 by bike over several journeys on the European coastline. He has actually made it into the Guinness Book Of Records for his accomplishments. I noticed he has his own blog on WordPress, if you want to see more about his travels.

Kim’s bar and author

When I arrived at Eugenia Victoria Hotel and started to write my blog, I had difficulty downloading my photos into the blog site, so I had to find a location that had a higher internet speed. A local guide told me about Kim’s Bar, just a few minutes from the hotel. It’s an English-style bar with TVs that broadcast live English soccer matches with patrons who get very excited about the game, even wearing jerseys related to their team. It caters to English patrons, serving English-style food, lots of beer on tap, and where the waiters and waitresses call you “love.” It has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and where if you order a bag of chips, it’s a bag of “crisps.” Oh, and if you want you can get a grilled “Ham and Cheese!”

Las Palmas, Capital of Gran Canaria

The History of Las Palmas

View of Las Palmas from the top of the Las Palmas Cathedral

The city was founded in 1478 by Juan Rejon, who invaded the island and engaged in war with the local indigenous people. He established a fort, Real de las Palmas, becoming the first foundation of Las Palmas. In 1492, Christopher Columbus arrived in Las Palmas, and it was from here that he launched his first trip to the Americas. The Canary archipelago had many advantages to facilitate navigation to the West. As well as the beneficial trade and ocean currents, it was also a place to stock up on supplies for the Atlantic crossing. Thus, the canaries became a huge centre for trade and a departure point for exploration and emigration of the West. Interestingly, San Antonio, Texas, was founded in 1718 by about 25 Canary islanders and continues to be be a sister city to Las Palmas.

Typical street in Las Palmas

The Casa de Colon, Columbus House

This museum, located in the historic district of Vegueta in Las Palmas, is called Columbus House because it is thought that on a stopover here, due to a repair required on his ship, La Pinta, in 1492, he stayed in this building, which was back then the residence of the first governors of the island.

This building is recognized as one of the most attractive in Las Palmas, with its lovely typical balconies, interior courtyards and beautifully carved wooden ceilings. The museum attracts visitors fascinated with the exploits of Christopher Columbus.

Columbus’s three ships.

On display, in its thirteen exhibition rooms, are intriguing items related to his exploration of the Americas, from a replica of Columbus’s cabin on one of his ships, La Nina, to  navigation instruments, nautical maps and charts, models of his three ships and letters written by Columbus to Queen Isabella of Spain. What I found particularly interesting was a video screen that traced each of his four journeys across the Atlantic to the Americas, from the Canary Islands. Through this representation, the history of his voyage comes alive

El Museo Canario, the Canary Museum

This museum is also located in the historic district of Vegueta, of Las Palmas. The collection in this museum is vast and represents the indigenous people, or the first settlers, of Gran Canaria called Canarios. Previously I have referred to the indigenous people of Canaria as Guanches, but this term translated actually means “first settlers of Tenerife,” and Tenerife is another island in the Canarian archipelago. So I stand corrected. The indigenous people who settled on Gran Canaria, like those on Tenerife, were from North Africa of Berber origin, and occupied the islands until the 15th century when the Spanish (Castilians) conquered the indigenous people and colonized the islands.

Example of cave home.

This museum has a large collection of many artifacts related to the Canarios: stone implements used as tools, and mills and mortars to grind grain; the types of grains used; items made from animal skins such as clothing and items made from vegetable fibre such as mats. Part of the complex social structure of the Canarios was the use of seals. Specific groups within this island culture were able to be distinguished from other groups by markings on their body which were applied by a seal that had a particular design; different groups were defined by different designs.

A fascinating part of the museum is related to a focus on funeral rites, where the Canarios “mummified” their dead. They had funeral chambers in caves and buried the bodies using funerary rites, such as burying items with the dead for the after life.

Their ceramic collection is comprehensive in that it has examples of pottery from all the other islands of the archipelago, as well as from Gran Canaria. It shows the most representative pieces from every island focusing on the various shapes, decorative motifs and their purpose whether they were for practical uses such as for storage of food or cooking, for a ritual function or simply decorative use.

The Cathedral of Santa Ana

Cathedral of Santa Ana

The Cathedral  is the seat of the Dioceses of the Canaries in the Roman Catholic Church. Building started in 1500 and didn’t finish until the 18th century, so it has lots of styles included in it structure, from renaissance Gothic from its original design to neoclassical exterior that was continued in the second half of the 18th century. For one and half Euros, you can take a lift to the roof of this church and from there, you have a wonderful view of Las Palmas and the harbour front.

Shopping in Las Palmas

Trianna shopping area

A bus ride from Playa del Ingles to Las Palmas takes about 50 minutes and costs just over five Euros.What would a trip to Las Palmas be without a bit of shopping involved? One of the main shopping areas, which I really enjoy, was walking along Trianna, a pedestrian walkway lined with small shops, name brand stories and restaurants. If you look up the side streets that run off of Trianna, there are many more small cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating and umbrellas for protection against the sun.

Based on directions from the Information Kiosk, I walked up one these side streets in order to get to the post office to mail a package home to Ottawa. Not only did I find the Post Office, but did quite well in my faltering Spanish to explain what I wanted to do. It went pretty well, but I had rehearsed! As I walked up the side street, I found many people seated at various cafes enjoying a breakfast or coffee with friends or co-workers. Along the way I stopped for a Cappuccino and noticed that the cafe I had selected was also Vegan, one of the only ones I’ve encountered to date on Gran Canaria. My daughter and son-in-law would be pleased!

Flamenco

Back at the hotel, Eugenia Victoria, I was pleased to see that the entertainment for the evening was Flamenco!

 

 

Galdar’s Archaeological Museum

A Bit About Galdar

Galdar is located on Gran Canaria island at its most northern tip. To get to Galdar from Playa del Ingles, I took a bus to the capital, Las Palmas, and from there another bus to Galdar. All together the trip was about an hour and a half. Galdar is called the “first capital of Gran Canaria” because in the time before the arrival of the Europeans, this was the capital for the indigenous people of Gran Canaria, called “Agaldar” back then. The location of the Archaeological Museum and Park, is the actual site of the ancient village of Agaldar and its impressive “Painted Cave”. The photo to the left in Galdar is a monument to the “Native Princesses”.

The Indigenous People of Gran Canaria

Much evidence and research traces the Indigenous peoples of Gran Canaria to being descendants of the Berbers from North Africa about 3,000 years ago. When the Europeans arrived in the Canaries in the 14th and 15th centuries there were about 30 indigenous villages spread throughout the island with about 20,000 people populating them. Only 3,000 indigenous people survived the Spanish colonization.

The Ancient Village of Agaldar and the Archaeological Site

A cave dwelling dug our of volcanic rock

The ancient village of Agaldar was occupied from the 7th to the 16th centuries, with the best documented periods falling into the latter part of this era. The archaeological site comprises a group of man-made caves, known as the Troglodyte Complex, and within its centre is the decorated  chamber, the “Painted Cave” or in Spanish, the “Cueva Pintada”.

Example of a semi-underground house

The cave dwellings were dug out of the volcanic rock. Another type of dwelling within the village were semi-underground houses, houses that were started underground, then compressed volcanic rock was often used to build up the walls.

The archaeological site with roof and walkway

The entire archaeological site is protected with a roof over it and with access through its entirety with raised walkways. Several elevators allow visitors with mobility issues access to the whole site, as there are several stairs to climb.

“The Painted Cave” Photo credit: Museo Y Parque Arqueologico

The highlight of the guided tour through this archaeological site was visiting the painted cave, which is completely surrounded by glass to prevent any further deterioration of its painted portions. When the cave was discovered, it contained mummies, pottery and other archaeological items. It is estimated that this cave was painted in the 12th century; it is the most complex example of indigenous mural painting in Gran Canaria.

It is thought that this cave was used for special rituals related to burial ceremonies and offerings.In ancient cultures, oftentimes items are buried with the dead for the afterlife. Since this indigenous culture did not have a writing system, much is speculation.

Statue honouring indigenous women

This indigenous people had herds of goats, grew crops of barley, wheat, beans, peas, and lentils. They also ate figs and dates and preserved food with the use of salt. Within the museum portion of this site, there are many ceramic objects made by the indigenous people. Their pottery was hand made, with perfect shaping and symmetry and often decorated with geometrical shapes, circles, triangles and squares. Ceramic items were often used for storage or the preparation of food. There is a growing interest in the indigenous peoples as evidenced by the large group that took part in the guided tour and the many questions asked of our guide. The guide himself admitted that there is still a lot to learn about the indigenous peoples of Gran Canaria.

 

 

 

 

 

A Tour of Gran Canaria

From Play del Ingles, in the south, to San Bartolome de Tirajana

View of Fataga Valley

This “VIP Tour” was organized by Viajes Tara, with tour guide extraordinaire, Gary. First stop was at a lookout called Degollada de las Yeguas. And what a view it was. From the south side, one can see cars winding up the road to the lookout from Playa del Ingles. Looking North, the Fataga Valley stretches out for several kilometres, leading to the small village of Fataga. Here the landscape is semi-arid.

 

Another View of the Fataga Valley

In the middle of this photo you see the hightest peak on Gran Canaria, Pico de las Nieves

 

Another stop along this tour was to try to catch a glimpse of the highest peak on Gran Canaria, Pico de las Nieves, at a height of 1,949 metres above sea level. And we were lucky! High above the clouds, we were able to get a glimpse of it. Close to this peak is a military base.We stopped at Villa de San Bartolome de Tirajana, or for short Tuntes, to get this photo. There are many cyclists biking to within a short distance of Pico de las Nieves. Many, I believe are getting in shape for the Tour de France. I can’t imagine myself biking up these steep roads with their hairpin turns. Our tour guide pointed out that he hasn’t seen one cyclist with a smile, and no wonder, considering the effort they must expend in reaching their destination. My hat is off to them!

On to Tejeda, Teror and an Aloe Vera Plantation

Rugged valley and peaks

We headed north-west towards Tejeda, a village that sits on the eastern side of a volcanic crater. Along the way to Tejeda, we stopped to take photos, and I was lucky to get this one that captures the rugged nature of the area with its peaks and valleys.

Tejeda is located almost at the centre of Gran Canaria, in a very mountainous area. By the way, we traveled in small mini-buses, carrying eight people plus driver. I was very glad of a smaller vehicle, when I think of the narrow roads and hair-pin turns, it must be a challenge for the larger tour buses.

The photo above is taken from Tejeda and shows sharp peaks and deep valleys, evidence of volcanic action. In the upper right-hand corner of the photo is Rock Bentayga, located inside the volcanic caldera of Tejeda. Near this rock were ancient aboriginal settlements of the Guanches, the indigenous people of the island.

Taken from Tejeda as the clouds drifted in

Blaconies of Teror

Going further north-west from Tejeda, we made a few more stops, one to the charming town of Teror with its Canarian-style pine balconies; it is under monument protection. The town became particularly well known after shepherds witnessed an apparition of the Virgin in 1481; it then became the most important pilgrimage place in the Canaries.

 

Aloe vera at Fincas Canarias

Last stop on the tour was to see an aloe vera plantation, a product the Canaries are famous for. At Fincas Canarias, we not only got to see the aloe vera growing in green houses( they have around 30,000 plants that are between 10 to 30 years old) but a explanation of its properties and benefits for the skin. Fincas Canarias is a family business dedicated to the ecological  cultivation of aloe vera.

Exploring Puerto Mogan, Venice of the Canaries

A bit of background on Puerto Mogan

Canal and bridge in Puerto Mogan

A network of canals link the marina to the harbour, thus the nickname “Little Venice” or “Venice of the Canaries.” This beautiful little resort town, located on the Western coast has several hotels, apartment rentals and up-market places for tourists to stay. It is also a fishing village with a lovely marina. A bylaw restricts any new building to be no higher than two stories, guarding against buildings which would restrict the view of the waterfront.

My day in Puerto Mogan

Today, Friday, is market day in Puerto Mogan and it attracts tourists from all over the island. I caught a bus from Playa del Ingles for just over four Euros and it was packed! I was lucky to get a seat as the ride there was about 30 minutes.

Ricami Veronica Shop

 

As well as the huge market, there are many shops spread throughout Puerto Mogan selling all manner of goods from clothing, hats, beach wear, baskets, high-end name brand clothing and souvenirs.  An interesting local speciality shop, Ricami Veronica, personalizes items such as towels, aprons and baby clothes either with a name or a phrase, and you can watch as your item is being embroidered.

 

 

Author with Sandy, owner of The Irish Tavern

Facing the marina you’ll find a large number of restaurants, many of them offering up fresh, delicious seafood. Puerto Mogan is reputed for its seafood. But you’ll also find many types of restaurants along this stretch including one called The Irish Tavern, where the owner, Sandy, offers up a varied menu including Irish stew, lasagna, home-made soups and what I love, her homemade desserts, some with an Irish twist.

Fruit Crumble at Irish Tavern

 

I knew this restaurant from having visited it last year and knew I’d get something, light, homemade and tasty. I had a hearty chicken soup with noodles and for dessert, a scrumptious fruit crumble with ice cream.

 

 

Beautiful Bougainvillea

 

What I love about Puerto Mogan is the upbeat yet relaxed feeling as one explores this little town with it colourful bougainvillea covering archways and climbing over white stucco buildings offering a vivid contrast.

 

An intriguing “find” in Puerto Mogan was a wall of relief artwork that captured the day-to-day life of local people called “El Paseo de Mis Padres” that translates to “The Passage of my Parents” that I found so charming. I’ve reproduced photos that I took of that relief work here.

I returned to Playa del Ingles on the 2:45 pm bus which was also crowded. It seems that for most people, four hours was just right to shop at the market, have a bit of lunch and walk around this scenic town

Gran Canaria to Tenerife

A Bit About Tenerife Island

It is the largest and most populated island in the Canary Islands and boasts the most number of tourist visits annually. It has the highest peak (often covered in snow during the winter months) in all of Spain, Mount Teide. The last time it erupted was in 1909. Mount Tiede can be seen from Gran Canaria on clear days.

Many of Tenerife’s resorts are in the South and West Coasts, and for good reason. This area is the sunniest, warmest and driest part of the island.

Tenerife is an island of micro climates, something I discovered when I visited Santa Cruz, in the North, the capital of Tenerife, and nearby La Laguna 12 kilometres away. These two municipalities experience quite different climates—La Laguna gets twice the amount of rainfall as Santa Cruz and is considerably cooler. Interestingly, “laguna” means lagoon in English. I sure felt like I was in a lagoon when I visited La Laguna—you’ll see why when I explain my visit there.

Gran Canaria to Tenerife

Fred Olson Catamaran at Agaete

This should be exciting, I thought, a trip from Gran Canaria to Tenerife on a catamaran! So, I’m up by 5:45 am to be picked up by a bus to take me and several others to Agaete. Agaete is the port on the West cost of Gran Canaria where we board the Fred Olson catamaran, a catamaran that seems very new and modern. A bar on board supplied some much needed coffee. We leave at 8:30. The one-hour and fifteen-minute crossing wasn’t particularly rough, but I was still glad to have taken a gravol before boarding. I sat at the front of the boat for the view, but it’s here that one feels the impact of any rough seas the most, there were a few good waves, but on the whole it was a smooth crossing.

Port at Tenerife

Once in Santa Cruz on Tenerife Island, I stopped at a tourist kiosk for information on Santa Cruz, and how to get to La Laguna, described as a charming and historic town with many pedestrian walkways.

 

 

 

Fruit and Vegetable Market

I started my adventure in Santa Cruz, armed with a map and a suggested route that would take me to the Museum of Nature and Man, a museum that was a must-see for me, since it has an extensive collection of artifacts and information on the culture of the Guanches, Tenerife’s indigenous peoples. Along the way, I passed Plaza San Francisco, pedestrian walkways, visited the local market with a wide array of fruit, vegetables, take-away food and lovely flowers.

And just in front of the market were two sculptures, one honouring the local fisherman of Tenerife, and the other of a woman carrying a basket of jugs on her head. Sculptures appear to be a Canarian tradition, as they are seen in many towns I’ve visited. I passed the iconic Opera House, then on to the Museum of Nature and Man. It was very impressive indeed with many artifacts and much history related to the Gaunaches, but explanations were only in Spanish. A lunch break at the museum was a real find: a coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and ham and cheese sandwich was only three and half Euros.

Now on to La Laguna. I was quite eager to do this trip because I particularly enjoy visiting charming, historic towns. La Laguna’s historic centre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Its history goes back to the Guanches, the indigenous people of Tenerife; the site of La Laguna once belonged to one of nine Guanche kingdoms before the Spanish conquest in 1494.

Colourful Tram

A fun and scenic way to get to La Laguna from Santa Cruz is by tramway, a ride that takes 45 minutes because of the many stops along the 12-kilometre route. I bought my ticket, but once on the tramway you’re supposed to validate it, of course being new to this I couldn’t get the machine to accept my ticket. Oh well, I thought, at least I have a ticket. They do spot checks on the tram to ensure ticket validation, and it wasn’t long before a conductor asked for my ticket. Luckily I had kept it. When he noted that it wasn’t validated, I explained that I had tried to do it unsuccessfully. “No problemo,” he said, he validated it for me and handed it back. Whew…first hurdle crossed.

Laguna’s Historic Centre

Well, I got to La Laguna and it was pouring rain and really cool! The micro climate in Tenerife in action. I had just left Santa Cruz where it was cloudy but warm and now just a short distance away, the climate is very different. Luckily I had brought my umbrella, a fairly warm jacket and walking shoes rather than the open toed sandals I usually wore while on Gran Canaria.

I started out to find the historic core of the town. Have you ever felt, well, vulnerable and confused as a traveller in a foreign land? This is an instance where I have to admit I did (okay, it’s not the first time). You’re in an unfamiliar place, with limited knowledge of the local language, chilled from the cold, and there’s heavy rain threatening to soak you through, and a wind strong enough to pull your umbrella inside out. I’ve come all this way to see the historic centre, and by gosh that’s what I’m going to do, it’s what travellers do. Finally, I have in my sights a local police car. Well, I thought, I’ll ask them, they must know the area. I must have looked quite a sight because they immediately invited me into the police car and to take me there! The kindness of people still exists. I find it more often than not.

Wet in Laguna

So in the pouring rain I found the historic centre and took a few photos as proof of it and the pouring rain. I got back on the tram and headed back to Santa Cruz to walk around the central commercial area, purchase a few souvenirs and have a hot cup of coffee.

 

 

 

Interestingly, back in Santa Cruz, it had rained a bit, but not nearly with the same intensity as at La Laguna, and by the time I was back the sky was already clearing—proof yet again of the micro climate, but one where cows use umbrellas.

 

 

 

 

On the way back to the port I was greeted by the most beautiful rainbow and a clearing sky. The journey on the catamaran back to Gran Canaria was a smoother one. Back at Eugenia Victoria Hotel in Playa del Ingles I arrived just in time to have supper.

Playa del Ingles to Maspalomas

An Invigorating Beach Walk

Playa del Ingles Beach

A stay at Playa Del Ingles or the translation, “Englishman’s Beach” wouldn’t be complete without a walk along a long stretch of beach of approximately five Kilometres either to Faro de Maspalomas from Playa del Ingles or going in the reverse direction. I’ve done this invigorating walk both ways and it is a total delight and great exercise. It can on occasion be quite windy, but usually there’s a light sea breeze, just enough to cool you from the heat of the day. You’ll encounter many people on this walk, in fact I’ve never taken this walk in solitude, that being said this stretch of beach is very wide so there is always lots of space and you never feel crowded.

Maspalomas Dunes

Dabble your toes in the surf, stop for a refreshment along the way at one of the several beach shacks, or rent an umbrella and lounge chair. This area is also known for its nude beaches, a common phenomenon in Europe. A highlight of this walk are the Maspalomas Dunes that you’ll encounter along the way, a unique attraction of Playa del Ingles. You’d think you’re in a microcosm of the Sahara. A walk through them makes for an out of the ordinary experience.

Maspalomas Lighthouse

Even when you’re quite a distance from Faro de Maspalomas, you’ll see its landmark lighthouse peeping up from the dunes.  It’s a still-active 19^th century lighthouse, 56 metres high with a light beam that can be seen 19 nautical miles away. Once there you’ll find tourist shops selling clothing and souvenirs, many fine restaurants, coffee shops, a designer and name brand shopping complex and luxury hotels. If shopping and dining are on your agenda at Faro de Maspalomas, local buses or a taxi will take you back to Playa del Ingles. But if you’re still feeling energetic, a boardwalk continues on from Faro de Maspalomas to Meloneras Beach for another kilometre or so.

Author relaxing at Maspalomas

The area of Faro de Maspalomas and Playa del Ingles is located in the municipality of San Bartolome de Tirajana at the very southern tip of Gran Canaria Island. In this vicinity, you will find no hotels built on the ocean front. It’s heartening to see that good ecological planning is in force, particularly in the Maspalomas Dunes which have been protected as a nature reserve since 1897. They cover an area of 404 hectares.

Mediterranean Cuisine

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cuisine, Sousse, Tunisia

 

Mediterranean Cuisine, Tunisian Style

Sousse, “The Pearl of the Sahel,” is Tunisia’s third largest city and situated on Tunisia’s central, eastern coast. It is an ideal point of departure for exploring the rest of the country and is famous for its beaches, resorts, golf courses, marinas and its Mediterranean Cuisine.

Something Sweet

At Patisserie Cherif in Sousse, my eyes danced over tray upon tray of pastries, cakes and cookies. The enticing variety of culinary delights made it almost impossible to make a choice. Also on offer were eighteen, mouth watering flavours of gelato and sorbet. “Pistachio is by far our most popular flavor,” explained Hamda Cherif , owner of Patisserie Cherif, which was founded in 1954.

Hamda uses only natural ingredients in his bakeries (six in Sousse). “The most common ingredients are lemons, strawberries, bananas, mangos, almonds, hazelnuts, pistachio, and of course dates, chocolate, coconut, butter and cream.” One of his most popular traditional cookies, is the Cornes de Gazelles, which translates into Gazelle’s Horns. These delicious cookies are made from simple ingredients. The dough is made with flour, butter and water, and the filling is comprised of almonds, sugar and orange flower water.

Patisserie Cherif is a local Sousse institution where customers are always lined up. Hamda says that he keeps his prices reasonable for the local people. Where else could you get two scoops of delicious gelato for less than one dollar Canadian?

Something Savoury

Through the local Sousse network I found a small restaurant, Le Poisson d’or – exactly the kind of restaurant I love to discover – off the beaten track, simply furnished and barely evident as a restaurant from the outside. Its patrons are local people who go there for its excellent traditional Tunisian cuisine.

Nejib Abdeddaim, the owner, does not have a regular menu, as it changes from day-to-day, and is based on the fresh foodstuffs he finds in the local market. One morning, at 9:00 am sharp, I was delighted to join Nejib in the Sousse medina as he shopped for vegetables, fruit, meat and fish.

A stroll through the medina of Sousse is always an adventure, but food shopping with Nejib was a unique experience. The fish market, particularly, was a lively, raucous place where fishmongers shouted out their catch of the day along with prices, hoping to drown out their competitors.

Nejib’s purchases for the day included Sea Bass, lamb, veal, petites pois, carrots, tomatoes, apples and strawberries. After making these purchases, he decided that his lunch menu for the day would include “Lamb with Petite Pois.” His recipe for this dish is comprised of lamb, onions, fresh petites pois, green peppers, an artichoke cut in half and tomato paste, while seasonings include salt, pepper and chili powder.

Nejib pointed out that prices for produce had jumped 30% in the last year. It’s due, he explained, to Libya’s strong buying power. Libya borders Tunisia to the south, where much Tunisian produce is sold, thus, pushing prices up for Tunisians.

More about Tunisian Cuisine and foodstuffs

Whether sweet or savoury, Tunisian cuisine is diverse and typically Mediterranean. One of Tunisia’s most traditional dishes is couscous, made with semolina, meat (often lamb) or fish and vegetables. Chorba is a traditional spicy soup that uses Harissa, a very popular condiment made with red chilli peppers and garlic.

Locally grown produce includes dates, almonds, olives, tomatoes, a wide assortment of vegetables and oranges, grapes, apples, plums, strawberries, peaches, figs, prickly pears and melons. At every market in Tunisia, spices perfume the air – cinnamon, saffron, ginger, turmeric and cumin.

Oranges are ubiquitous in Tunisia. Charming, seaside Sidi Bou Said, a suburb of Tunis, has orange trees lining its streets. Here, you’ll find a plethora of art and artisan shops and sparkling white stucco buildings accentuated with doors and shutters painted a brilliant Mediterranean blue.

Tunisia is rich in culture and history

Many civilizations have left their mark on Tunisia, resulting in a plethora of sites and places to visit: ancient Roman ruins, troglodyte houses of the Berbers, seaside forts, mosques with their tall, ornate minarets and medieval medinas selling all manner of goods and Tunisian handicrafts.

Tunisia’s geography

Tunisia’s geography is equally diverse. The Khroumirie Mountains in the north with their towering pine, cork and oak trees form a scenic backdrop to the green rolling hills that lead into them. The verdant north forms a stark contrast to the extreme south and the vast, golden Sahara with its endless, shifting dunes of sand as fine as powder.

Between the extremes of north and south, in the mid section, is the area for almond and peach trees, fields of barley, grazing sheep and miles of neat rows of olive groves many bordered by prickly pear hedges. Further south, closer to the Sahara the land becomes semiarid with dry, flat plains, little vegetation and dotted with oases with lofty date palm trees.

If you enjoy food, adventure, unique experiences and like to explore, Tunisia has much to offer. It also offers warmth and relaxation at its many Mediterranean resorts. A plus are the people of Tunisia who you’ll discover to be friendly, warm and welcoming