Charming Granada

A Bit About Granada

Local architecture with cathedral roof in the background with both Gothic and Baroque  influences

Granada is the capital city of the province of Granada and located at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It has a much smaller population than Madrid and Barcelona(half a million which includes the urban population) and for this reason it made an interesting contrast after having visited two of Spain’s largest cities.

Where We Stayed and Local Sites

Albaicin Neighbourhood

 

Our hotel in Granada, the Hotel Pilar, located on Plaza Nueva, was very centrally located and close to the Moorish neighborhood of Albaicin (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), cafes,  restaurants, the cathedral, the Old Arab Market, shops and banks and the many winding pedestrian walkways which are so interesting to explore. My philosophy is to not be afraid of getting lost in this labyrinth of small streets, as you’re bound to make some interesting discoveries along the way, and you’re never far from the main thoroughfare in the core of the historic area.

 

One morning I got up early to wander through the Albaicin neighbourhood. It was an interesting experience to see the area come alive with people walking their dogs, school kids going to school, the sound of classical piano music being practised. Experiencing this makes you feel part of the community. A friendly “Buenos Dias” doesn’t hurt either…

Arab Market at Night

A Section of the Alhambra Complex of Palaces

Another part of the Alhambra Complex

Granada is particularly known for its architecture that dates back to the Moorish occupation, especially of the Alhambra, which our group had a guided tour of. I was mesmerized by the detailed and beautiful work of the Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is a palace and fortress complex.

More of the Alhambra Complex

It was originally constructed in 889 AD as a fortress, then rebuilt in the 13th century by Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar, who built the current palace and walls. It later became the court for  Ferdinand and Isabella, and where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition. The Alhambra is described as having the most important and significant Islamic architecture in Spain.

The Tapas Experience in Granada

Raucous Tapas Bar

Tapas bars are raucous and lively places to visit. One evening in Granada our group did a “Tapas Pub Crawl”. I certainly had an education on how to order in a Tapas Bar, first, make eye contact, and yell out what you want, then to get some free tapas that come with your drink, again, make sure you’re making eye contact with the waiter serving your section, and indicate through finger pointing or whatever means works what kind of tapas you want, then if you want to order more from the menu, step up to the bar and be seen and be heard! It’s no place to be a shrinking violet!

Scenes Around Granada

The famous Seville oranges you see growing along the streets of Granada

Typical pots with plants on balconies.

Some members of the G Adventures Group with the Alhambra in the background..we’re a happy bunch!

After several members of our group walked through the Albaicin area, we reached the Mirador San Nicolas lookout point and got a tremendous view of the Alhambra as the sun was starting to set. A big crowd was there to see the view, plus we had flamenco music being played by several guitarists.

Plaza Nueva at night…the Hotel Pilar is not far from here

Preparing to get on the fast-speed train going from Madrid to Granada

 

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Marvellous Madrid

A Bit About Madrid

Royal Palace

Madrid is Spain’s central capital and a very large city (metropolitan area population is 6.5 million), but its historical core is very easy to get around and quite compact in terms of seeing the major sites, including the Royal Palace, Prado Art Gallery, Plaza Mayor, the Sofyia National Art Gallery and the Almudena Cathedral.

 

 

What I saw and did in Madrid.

Royal Palace

The Royal Palace is the official residence of the royal family, but it is only used for state functions. It was originally built by Muhammad I between 1860 and 1880, but came under Castilian control in the 11th century when the moors were driven out.

Plaza de Espana with statue of Don Quixote and side kick Sancho

While in Madrid, our group stayed at the Europa Hotel on Plaza Sol, and from that location, everything was within walking distance to the major sites mentioned above.

 

 

 

 

Pedestrian walkway with flowering trees

As well, near the hotel there were many lovely pedestrian walkways for shopping, for example, the well known brand Desigual, had a shop not far away. I love much of the clothing, particularly their jeans, which often have some bold design on them.

 

 

 

Our G Adventures Guide, Viviana

I joined the G Adventures tour group (a group of 14 travellers) in Barcelona on Sunday, March 19th. From Barcelona the group took the high-speed train to Madrid, which travelled at the speed of about 270 kilometres per hour a good part of the time. Once in Madrid, we got onto the Metro from the train station, and was pleasantly surprised when we emerged from the metro, the Hotel Europa was only steps away. A good thing, when you’ve spent a good part of the day travelling!

Our G Adventures guide, Viviana, gave us all maps for the local area, highlighting the major sites, and gave us a short orientation of Madrid and how to get around.

 

Enjoying tapas with members of the G Adventures Group

We started our adventure in Madrid by going to a local restaurant for a meal of “tapas.” How does one define tapas? They can be a variety of small plates consisting of  a whole range of different items including vegetables, olives, meatballs, cheeses, fish or marinated items, and that’s just scratching the surface! The most fun is sharing tapas, commenting on the various taste sensations, enjoying a drink along with them whether it be wine, beer, vermouth, water, or a soft drink. And most important is enjoying the camaraderie of this lovely group of travellers who I will be travelling with for the next two weeks.

 

Hot Chocolate and Churros

A not-to-be-missed treat in Spain is churros and a thick hot chocolate. The delicious chocolate is so thick you can dip the churros into it! The melding of flavours is delicious…

 

 

 

 

Local Mounted Patrol

A very large and central square, Plaza Mayor

Plaza de la Ville, one of the oldest plazas in the city, dating back to the Middle Ages.

Vibrant Barcelona

Arriving in Barcelona

Although I’ve been to Barcelona several years ago, it’s the first time I’ve arrived by plane. As we flew into Barcelona, it seemed we were making a direct approach over the city to the airport, then quite suddenly the plane veered off over the ocean, and started to descend, actually, very close to the water, so close in fact, I was wondering if there was a problem and we had to make an emergency landing into the ocean. Nothing was out of the ordinary, we landed on the runway, on land. The first of many surprises in Barcelona.

About Barcelona

Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf

Barcelona is a very large city, 1.7 million in the administrative limits, but if you include the urban area it jumps to 4.6 million, making it the 6th most populous urban area in the European Union. More than 5 million people live in the metropolitan area, the largest on the Mediterranean Sea. Enough about population size, I just wanted to make a point about how large the city is, but how friendly its inhabitants are in spite of the size of the population, that is, from my experience. Interestingly, the first day I was here I had people approaching me for directions! I must have been starting to blend into the local milieu.

Pedestrian walkway at Arc de Triomf

Here’s just one experience I had the first day. I went into a shop near the “Palau de la Musica Catalana” situated near the quaint Born district of old Barcelona, an area full of narrow, winding pedestrian walkways, small shops and boutiques, cafes and restaurants. As I was browsing in the boutique I got talking to the salesperson who was so friendly and who ended up giving me all kinds of tourist tips, where to eat, where to find a good flamenco show, be ready to go early to the major sites to avoid the long line-ups, in short some of the best advice I received during my stay in Barcelona. And it was given in such an exuberant and friendly manner. So my impression of Barcelona began with that encounter and it didn’t change for over three days of visiting.

Where I stayed

While in Barcelona, for my first three nights, I stayed at Lodging Apartments City Centre on Arago Avenue. Accommodation was a small apartment, very modern, very clean, with a kitchen and living room/eating area. Staff occupied an office on the ground floor and were there to greet me when I arrived. They are there from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm during the week, and 10:00 am till 2:00 pm on weekends. As a single, senior traveller I felt very secure in the building. The staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful, so I can recommend Lodging Apartments. These apartments are also very close to some of the major sites such as Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera, Picasso Museum, Palau de la Musica Catalana, Barcelona Cathedral and Parc de la Ciutadella. I would say no more than a 20-minute walk to any of these places, but I’m a pretty fast walker!

Where I ate: Cafe Buho, at 84 Saint Joan

One delicious meal at Cafe Buho–chicken with artichokes

And how lucky I was to find a lovely restaurant just a few minutes walk from my apartment, called Cafe Buho, at 84 Saint Joan. The first time I ate there was on my second day for lunch when I had a mushroom soup and hummus with toasted bread, and even though this was a simple meal, it was delicious, and I was hooked. Interestingly I had made a connection with one of the waiters the night before as I was coming back to my apartment, I wasn’t sure where I was, it’s interesting how things can look quite different at night, compared to daytime, after all it was my first day here. The waiter took the time to show me where I was and how to get to my apartment. It turns out I was only a few minutes away. But it was the courtesy of that waiter that compelled me to go back for my first lunch there, one more example of the kindness of the local people.

My two suppers there included a chicken dish with both roasted and pureed artichoke hearts, with salad greens, and a risotto with eggplant and apple puree. As well as an extensive menu of entrees (smoked salmon, vegetarian burger, beef and other choices) they have several appetizers to choose from including a nice selection of cheeses. They also offer delicious fruit drinks, for example a “Virgin Mojito” with mint and apple juice or strawberry drink with various other juices. I enjoyed every dish I tried. My sense is that their menu selections have a creative and fresh “twist” and are geared towards healthy but delicious taste sensations.

What did I visit in Barcelona?

Sagrada Familia

Exterior of Sagrada Familia

Interior of Sagrada Familia

This is Antoni Gaudi’s church still in the making. Antoni Gaudi is Barcelona’s most famous architect and his work is seen throughout Barcelona. Gaudi spent 40 years of his life as the main architect of the this building. It is the 8th wonder of the world in the making as evidenced by the cranes and the workmen one sees tied by safety ropes and working on the exterior of the church. It is estimated the work will be finished in 2026, the 100th anniversary of the death of Gaudi. Of the 18 spires originally planned only eight have been built. Their completion will make this church the tallest church building in the world.

 

Gaudi used a revolutionary art form called “trencadis” tiling which consisted of smashing up ceramics and making mosaic patterns out of them. Examples of this type of work on the spires at Sagrada Familia, at Parc Guell and on some of the chimneys at La Pedrera.

La Pedrera (The Stone Quarry)

Exterior of La Pedrera

Roof-top chimneys at La Pedrera

Another of Gaudi’s works, this unique building was completed in 1912, an apartment block so imaginative and fanciful, that truly shows his creative genius. On the rooftop are chimneys resembling warrior helmets and marshmallow-like ventilator ducts. The front of the building has a wave-like design and a flow to the wrought iron balconies, everything he did was so unique in design. The building holds the offices of a centre dedicated to Gaudi and apartments.

Roof-top chimneys at La Pedrera

Palau de la Musica Catalana

Concert Hall of Palau de la Musica Catalana

It is a concert hall designed by architect Lluis Domenech Montaner and built between 1905 and 1908, a miracle really when one sees the building. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The guide who led us through the building said that there are over 300 concerts per year. The concert hall was designed so that natural light comes through the numerous stained glass windows on the sides, and in the ceiling is a magnificent stained glass skylight that allows sunlight to permeate the entire hall. One feels joyful and uplifted with the tremendous light coming in in all directions.

Balcony with mosaic pillars at Palau de la Musica Catalana

Another highlight of the building is the front balcony with its stained glass windows and rows of brightly coloured mosaic pillars.

Parc de la Ciutadella

Cascading Fountain in Parc de la Ciutadella

Built in the 1860s, this park is a place of calm against the hustle and bustle of urban Barcelona. Highlights of the park include a man-made lake where you can rent a row boat, and an intriguing Baroque-style cascading fountain with cherubs, winged lions and nymph-like statues throughout.

Walking through this park, I felt that I had time-travelled back to the 1960s and the hippie days. Many individuals strumming guitars and other instruments, and some people juggling or walking a tight rope. Oh, the good old days.

Other Sites

La Rambla

 

Other sites I experienced:La Rambla is a one-kilometre pedestrian walk-way starting near the port at the statue of Christopher Columbus. It’s lined with restaurants, souvenir shops, flower shops, caricaturists and buskers.

 

 

Barcelona Cathedral

I also visited Barcelona’s Gothic Cathedral and a highlight for me was Picasso Museum which traces Picasso’s life as an artist. It boasts the most extensive collection of his earlier work, some painted at the early age of 10. It was fascinating to learn the stages of his life’s work as an artist, what influenced him and how this impacted on his work.

I’m planning to visit Parc Guell tomorrow, another example of Gaudi’s influential and whimsical work. Tomorrow in the evening I meet up with my group tour with G Adventures. And tomorrow at 9:30 pm I have the great honour of attending a flamenco performance in Palau de la Musica Catalana.

Roof-top of Palau de la Musica Catalana

 

Spa Day at Eugenia Victoria Hotel

My Last Day at Playa del Ingles

One of the pools at the Wellness Centre

What better way to prepare for more travelling than to take a spa day? Today is my last day at Eugenia Victoria Hotel and Playa del Ingles. What I particularly love about this hotel is the Vital Wellness Centre where you will find several hot pools with jets, a Dead Sea Pool, Whirlpools, and two saunas, one steam or Roman style and one dry, or Finnish style.

 

 

Relaxation room before or after treatments

 

Here at the Wellness Centre you will also find all kinds of treatments from exfoliation, facial treatments, to body treatments such as chocolate or red wine therapy! I didn’t ask about those particular ones, but they sound yummy if you’re a chocolate or wine lover!

 

 

Graciela giving me massage, Photo Credit, Stefanie

Graciela is the person at the Wellness Centre who does the massage therapy. I was very impressed to learn that she has well over 30 years experience doing massage. She also does Reicki. While staying at Eugenia Victoria I had several massages with her and was very pleased with the outcome. As well as offering a “Classic” massage, she also offers specialized ones that target the back and shoulders or tired legs, or for anti-stress (in my mind all massages are anti-stress!), hot stone massage, chocolate massage, foot reflexology, a Hammam massage with oil and some others to boot.

Also, they have body wraps such as seaweed or mud applications or a Cleopatra Bath. Now there’s an intriguing treatment.

The Cleopatra Bath! Photo credit  Stefanie

I had scheduled a “classic” massage today with Graciela and I was considering a skin treatment, something that would add a bit of a glow to my skin which had seen a lot of the sun and tends to be dry. Graciela recommended the Cleopatra bath as the best option for me. Now I had heard that Cleopatra liked to take milk baths, so I was intrigued to find out what was involved in the one offered at the Wellness Centre.

Relaxed and happy with the Cleopatra Bath, Photo Credit, Stefanie

 

It turns out that you get “wrapped” in a cloth with milk and almond oil, two known things to nourish the skin. You are then further “wrapped” to allow the milk and almond oil to penetrate the skin and work their magic. The lights are dimmed and soft music wafts through the air. I went into a state of complete relaxation, which didn’t take much after the massage.

 

Massage room for Hammam style massage

It has been a very pleasant stay at the hotel. The staff here are very friendly and kind. They truly contributed to making my stay here a very enjoyable one. I recommend the hotel to anyone who is looking for a comfortable hotel with good, satisfying meals, a ten-minute walk to the beach and many services close by, including shopping and food market. The hotel offer a shuttle bus to the beach if you’re wanting the service.

 

Flamenco at the hotel

Here at Eugenia Victoria Hotel, nightly entertainment includes many different types of shows, including flamenco, acrobatics, impersonations, singing and even bingo on some evenings. Outdoors, around the pool area, there is a singer every night. There is a large lounge area, an indoor bar and several outside bars around the pool area.

Tomorrow, I must awake at 3:30 am to take a taxi at 4:00 am to the Las Palmas airport. My flight to Barcelona is at 7:00 am. I’m hoping that Cafe de Paris will have some of my favourite danishes left, so I can bring one on the flight. The next time you hear from me I will be in Barcelona, refreshed from my spa day and ready to explore this interesting city.

 

 

 

Sioux City in Gran Canaria

A Western Town in the Canaries?

Sioux City Street

Who would have thought I’d find a town in the Canaries styled on a typical Western town that one would find in the Canadian or American frontier going back to the 1800’s? Well, it exists on Gran Canaria in Playa del Ingles and a very good replica it is. When you walk the boardwalk sidewalks of this town, it feels like you’ve been thrown back to another era, and one that you’d definitely find outside the Canaries!

 

Sioux City Street

I know that a lot of German people love the Western lifestyle and even travel all the way to Western Canada to live it, by going horseback riding on the prairies, staying at ranches, joining cattle drives and also taking part in the Native lifestyle. Maybe the Canarians had this in mind when they created Sioux City, as there are many Germans that visit the Canaries.

As well as Germans there are many Dutch, Scandinavians, French, Belgians and people from the UK and Ireland. For them, it has become their “Caribbean”.

My Western Roots

Countryside around Sioux City

There is something tantalizing about the Western lifestyle, perhaps there is a perception of freedom, a place that is still “wild” and for sure it has the wide, open spaces. Now just a bit about me and why I was intrigued and interested in going to Sioux City. Those aforementioned qualities certainly appealed to me when I learned, at the age of six, that my family was moving out “West” to Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan. After having been a big fan of The Lone Ranger (a  TV program about a masked cowboy and his Native sidekick Tonto) and also a horse lover, nothing could be better. I was totally enthralled with what I was hoping to find out West, lots of horses, cowboys, dirt streets, saloons, hitching posts, wooden sidewalks and even a few showdowns to liven things up!

Some History about the Canadian West

I was quite disappointed, I found paved roads and cement sidewalks, just like there were back East. Many years later, however, I found the real “West” by joining rides across the prairies that traced the trail taken by the Boundary Commission (who established the 49th parallel between Canada and the US) and later the same trail was taken by the Northwest Mounted Police, a force that became the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, Canada’s force with the red tunics and the Musical Ride that is known throughout the world. This force was to establish law and order in the West.

How Could They Possibly Make a Genuine Western Town in Gran Canaria?

Sign as you enter Sioux City

When I first learned of Sioux City, I have to say that I was a bit dubious. How could the Canary Islands come up with a genuine Western Town? I was very much mistaken, this town was set up in a very authentic way. Whoever did the planning must have done their homework. It was, in fact, just like a town I had been hoping for when I moved out West to Saskatchewan at the age of six! So my cowgirl hat is off to the city planners of Sioux City.

About the Visit to Sioux City

Even Indians at Sioux City

 

First off, there was a free shuttle bus that took you to Sioux City, it was about a 15-minute drive from Playa del Ingles. Upon arrival, you had the chance to wonder around, take in the sights, and visit the several recreated buildings, from the general store, saloon, farrier, barber shop, stables, bank, sheriff’s office and jail, church and even Boot Hill. And of course there were dirt streets and boardwalks with hitching posts for the horses.

 

 

Horse in “long reins” doing dressage moves–beautiful!

Taking a bow.

 

A Horse Whisperer offered several demonstrations with his amazing horses, one beautiful horse demonstrated exquisite dressage moves, another horse, more a pony did some cute tricks. This presentation was followed by lasso techniques.

 

 

A herd of long-horned cattle stampeded up the main street, followed by a herd of horses — what excitement!

 

 

Stampede of wild horses up the main street of Sioux City

Bandits preparing to rob the bank

An exciting “Wild West Show” outdoors on the streets of Sioux City featured bandits riding on horseback into town to rob the local bank, followed by gun battles, the local drunk getting involved, and a feisty purse swinging local lady who thought she could bring some order to the situation. The whole event was very entertaining and just up my alley.

 

What’s a Wild West Show without the town drunk?

Lasso Show at indoor theatre

 

The entertainment came indoors to the theatre adjoining the saloon for a lasso and “flying knives” show. In the saloon who better to appear than Dolly Parton and Mexican banditos having disagreements and a shootout, of course with audience involvement.

 

A beautiful Andalusian horse at Sioux City.

What an exciting day in Sioux City!

Carnival Time at Playa del Ingles

A Week of Celebrations, March 3rd to the 12th

After a week of celebrations in Playa del Ingles including election of the carnival queen, senior queen and drag queen; carnival for children; many performances; parties and an interesting event called “The Reading of the Sardines’ Last Will,” the carnival is over!

A huge event was the Carnival Parade on Saturday that involved over 100 floats– it started at 5:00 pm and went on to at least 10:00 pm. What a raucous, fun, music filled and colouful parade it was. The main theme for costumes this year were related to the “Hippie” era of the 1960s and “Pirates”.

I attended this parade that seemed to go on forever, and luckily it passed right in front of my hotel, The Eugenia Victoria.

Flower Power!

So here are a bunch of photos to give you insight into this most colourful and fun-filled event. The Spanish love to dress up, dance and generally have a good time. Of course there were many visitors as well taking part in the festivities.

 

 

 

More Flower Power!

Peace and love.

I did mention pirates!

Pirates getting ready for the parade

Eskimo in the Canaries?

How does he walk on those shoes??

Would you like this rose?

Lots of happy faces.

Castro in the Canaries?

I had fun too!!

Out and About in Playa del Ingles

A Pictorial of Playa del Ingles

This entry is a focus on photos taken around the resort area of Playa de Ingles which falls within a larger area called Maspalomas. Maspalomas is defined as stretching to Bahia Feliz in the east, and to Meloneras in the west. It is a hot +31C today. The locals say it is actually hotter than the norm which would be about +22 to 26C.

Man holding onto motorbike

 

This photo was taken at Faro de Maspalomas, near the lighthouse, about a five kilometre walk from Playa del Ingles. This is a real person holding on to the rear of a motorbike. How does he do it??

 

 

Floating on air?

There are many people like this dressed up in costume and standing stock-still. When you pass by them, they might wink, or gesture with their hand, apart from that they don’t move. Some are in very heavy costumes so I don’t know how they stand it in the heat! They have certainly earned the few coins that people give them.

 

 

 

 

As I was walking away from the Yumbo Shopping Centre one day, I came upon this mannequin dressed in hockey gear. No, I said to myself,they can’t possibly be selling hockey gear in the Canaries. I had to investigate.This model of a hockey player was advertising hockey games that were being shown at The Red Cow and Shenanigans Sports Bar in Playa del Ingles. From what I understood of the advertisement, it was hockey from the Scandinavian countries. Hope there were no “shenanigans” going on!

 

Dancing at the Kasbah

One of the things I love going to in the evenings is the Kasbah, about a five-minute walk from the Eugenia Victoria Hotel. The Kasbah is a complex of shops and restaurants, but at its centre is an open-area square where people can dance. There’s music there every night, sometimes live.I went there last year and this year, I notice some of the same people up on the dance floor and some putting on quite a show. There’s one couple who mimicks a bull and matador, quite entertaining, and the crowd loves it.

Beach umbrellas at Playa del Ingles

One of my favourite views from the upper boardwalk looking down at Playa del Ingles and the dunes beyond.

Let’s not forget my favourite treat at Cafe de Paris. After a long walk on the beach or something for a mid-morning snack, there is nothing that beats a Danish and cappuccino at Cafe de Paris, a great place too for people watching.

 

Carnival Time in Maspalomas

The Maspalomas Carnival takes place from March 3rd to the 12th, and this year it is called The Euro Carnival.Many of the carnival evening activities take place onstage at the Yumbo Centre in Playa del Ingles. It is a raucous and colourful event with singing, bands, children’s performances and  dancing. The costumes are colourful, glitzy and flamboyant, and the participants are exuberant and theatrical.

Main stage for the performances of the 2017 Maspalomas Euro Carnival

Senior Queen in costume

 

There are also a selection of queens within various categories. For example, there is the main Carnival Queen, but also a “Senior Queen” and a Drag Queen. I attended the “Senior Queen” selection last night. It was interesting to attend an event where there were older participants vying for the prize. What a wonderful way to get everyone involved and where age is not a barrier. Tonight is the selection for the Drag Queen.

 

 

Three other Senior Queens with singers

 

Reflections on Ham and Cheese… and Travel

My Inspiration and Passion for Travel

My Reflection on the beach of Playa del Ingles

Back in 1972 when I was 23 years old, I decided like so many other young people at the time to travel Europe with a knapsack on my back. I worked for a year, saved up, and I was off for three months exploring most of Europe.

Many of us were inspired by a book out entitled Europe On Five Dollars A Day, I believe the book was later updated to Europe on Ten Dollars a Day! It certainly served as an inspiration for a whole generation of young Canadians and Americans, many who had finished at least one university degree, to cross the Atlantic and explore Europe.

Many, like myself, did it on the cheap. I recall sometimes taking an overnight train so we could save on a hotel! Back then I travelled with friend, I wasn’t quite ready to go it alone. These days I often travel on my own, arrange my own itineraries, hotels and flights. When I reflect on this, I figure that I wouldn’t have visited half the places I’ve been to if I had waited for someone to accompany me. As I travel, I’ve also written for several publications as well as creating Armchair Travel Programs for senior residences in Ottawa.

I had the travel bug at a young age, maybe it came from growing up in Saskatchewan, where the prairies in the south part of the province, in wheat growing country, are truly flat as a pancake. Perhaps having this long view…and of wanting to see over the next horizon was the inspiration to “look beyond,” or to explore. My brother, who is a year older, is very much like me, he loves to travel, discover new places, and is quite the adventurer in the way he travels.

The Spanish Ham and Cheese Sandwich

Grilled Ham and Cheese Sandwich

When I was travelling back in 1972 in Spain, one could find at almost cafe or restaurant a “Ham and Cheese Sandwich,” it was everywhere.And that was a good thing, based on my budget back then.It became quite a staple food item while travelling through Spain, it was cheap, easily digested and contained protein. It was even easy to say in Spanish, “Sandwich de Jamon y Queso por favor.”

 

Cheese and Tomato Sandwich

There are many variations to this simple sandwich: you can have it grilled or not with just ham;just cheese;cheese and tomato; cheese, ham and tomato; or, the last version with more vegetables, one version like this on a menu was called “Sandwich Americano.” So it seems the original sandwich has evolved somewhat. Yet, it’s interesting how some culinary traditions stay the same. As I travel around Gran Canaria, and order a Ham and Cheese Sandwich, I reflect back to that time of travelling with a knapsack on my back.

Spain, in general, is a meat eating society, here in Playa del Ingles one finds  many steak restaurants, or where meat is the main dish. So it was a surprise to run into a Vegan restaurant in Las Palmas, called Zoe Food. I remember the words in the restaurant: “Please be patient, your meal is being prepared with love,” or something to that effect, words, certainly that reflect a certain philosophy about food and how it is served. Notice also on the sign, vegetarian, organic, and choices without gluten.

 

More Reflections on Travel and Meeting Other Travellers

As an independent traveller it’s nice to decide your own agenda, but it’s also great to meet other travellers to share experiences with, exchange ideas and generally enjoy each other’s company. There are many opportunities for this, chance meetings in restaurants or travelling on a local bus and not quite knowing how to get to your destination with a bus driver that doesn’t speak much English. I was on my way to Aguimes on a local bus trying to figure out where I had to transfer,and which other bus to get to go to Aguimes.

Visiting Pasito Blanco with Daniel and Sylviane

It happened there were two couples on the bus with the same perplexed and anxious look as myself, when we thought the bus ride was taking longer than it should as it meandered through a town, seemingly like taking the slow boat to China. Problem was resolved however, when the bus driver let us all off at just the right location to catch the connecting bus to Aguimes, and just in the nick of time as it was just coming around the corner on the other side of the road. We all scrambled to flag him down. I ended up spending the rest of the day with a lovely couple from Normandy, Daniel and Sylvaine. Together we explored the Guayadeque Ravine, had a meal together in a cave converted to a restaurant and shared a taxi back to Playa del Ingles, rather than risking another bus ride back with connections that are fewer between, and by that time it had also started to rain. We spent other days sight seeing together, and since they were French speaking, I had the opportunity to practice my French.

Another travel experience I had meeting another traveller was quite unique. I had taken the VIP Tour that I describe in my blog entry “A Tour of Gran Canaria” which took a group on a tour up to the mountains in central Gran Canaria and then further north on the island. When I got talking to a fellow traveller on the same bus, it turns out that his uncle was a Deacon in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, in the same town where I grew up in and lived from the mid-1950s to 1967. My father, who was Anglican, went to St. John’s Anglican church, the same church where this traveller’s uncle was the Deacon. Who would have thought in the mountains of Gran Canaria that two travellers would share a link to the same town in Saskatchewan, Moose Jaw!

Adelina Manuel Lopes and bike

There are travellers and there are travellers. I met Adelina Manuel Lopes the other day while walking the boardwalk near the beach of Playa del Ingles. Adelina has travelled over 85,000 by bike over several journeys on the European coastline. He has actually made it into the Guinness Book Of Records for his accomplishments. I noticed he has his own blog on WordPress, if you want to see more about his travels.

 

Kim’s Bar with author

When I arrived at Eugenia Victoria Hotel and started to write my blog, I had difficulty downloading my photos into the blog site, so I had to find a location that had a higher internet speed. A local guide told me about Kim’s Bar, just a few minutes from the hotel. It’s an English-style bar with TVs that broadcast live English soccer matches with patrons who get very excited about the game, even wearing jerseys related to their team. It caters to English patrons, serving English-style food, lots of beer on tap, and where the waiters and waitresses call you “love.” It has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and where if you order a bag of chips, it’s a bag of “crisps.” Oh, and if you want you can get a grilled “Ham and Cheese!”

Las Palmas, Capital of Gran Canaria

The History of Las Palmas

View of Las Palmas from the top of the Cathedral

The city was founded in 1478 by Juan Rejon, who invaded the island and engaged in war with the local indigenous people. He established a fort, Real de las Palmas, becoming the first foundation of Las Palmas. In 1492, Christopher Columbus arrived in Las Palmas, and it was from here that he launched his first trip to the Americas. The Canary archipelago had many advantages to facilitate navigation to the West. As well as the beneficial trade and ocean currents, it was also a place to stock up on supplies for the Atlantic crossing. Thus, the canaries became a huge centre for trade and a departure point for exploration and emigration of the West. Interestingly, San Antonio, Texas, was founded in 1718 by about 25 Canary islanders and continues to be be a sister city to Las Palmas.

Typical street in Las Palmas

The Casa de Colon, Columbus House

This museum, located in the historic district of Vegueta in Las Palmas, is called Columbus House because it is thought that on a stopover here, due to a repair required on his ship, La Pinta, in 1492, he stayed in this building, which was back then the residence of the first governors of the island.

Casa de Colon

This building is recognized as one of the most attractive in Las Palmas, with its lovely typical balconies, interior courtyards and beautifully carved wooden ceilings. The museum attracts visitors fascinated with the exploits of Christopher Columbus.

Columbus’s three ships

On display, in its thirteen exhibition rooms, are intriguing items related to his exploration of the Americas, from a replica of Columbus’s cabin on one of his ships, La Nina, to  navigation instruments, nautical maps and charts, models of his three ships and letters written by Columbus to Queen Isabella of Spain. What I found particularly interesting was a video screen that traced each of his four journeys across the Atlantic to the Americas, from the Canary Islands. Through this representation, the history of his voyage comes alive

El Museo Canario, the Canary Museum

This museum is also located in the historic district of Vegueta, of Las Palmas. The collection in this museum is vast and represents the indigenous people, or the first settlers, of Gran Canaria called Canarios. Previously I have referred to the indigenous people of Canaria as Guanches, but this term translated actually means “first settlers of Tenerife,” and Tenerife is another island in the Canarian archipelago. So I stand corrected. The indigenous people who settled on Gran Canaria, like those on Tenerife, were from North Africa of Berber origin, and occupied the islands until the 15th century when the Spanish (Castilians) conquered the indigenous people and colonized the islands.

Example of cave home

This museum has a large collection of many artifacts related to the Canarios: stone implements used as tools, and mills and mortars to grind grain; the types of grains used; items made from animal skins such as clothing and items made from vegetable fibre such as mats. Part of the complex social structure of the Canarios was the use of seals. Specific groups within this island culture were able to be distinguished from other groups by markings on their body which were applied by a seal that had a particular design; different groups were defined by different designs.

A fascinating part of the museum is related to a focus on funeral rites, where the Canarios “mummified” their dead. They had funeral chambers in caves and buried the bodies using funerary rites, such as burying items with the dead for the after life.

Many designs used by the Canarios

Their ceramic collection is comprehensive in that it has examples of pottery from all the other islands of the archipelago, as well as from Gran Canaria. It shows the most representative pieces from every island focusing on the various shapes, decorative motifs and their purpose whether they were for practical uses such as for storage of food or cooking, for a ritual function or simply decorative use.

The Cathedral of Santa Ana

The Cathedral  is the seat of the Dioceses of the Canaries in the Roman Catholic Church. Building started in 1500 and didn’t finish until the 18th century, so it has lots of styles included in it structure, from renaissance Gothic from its original design to neoclassical exterior that was continued in the second half of the 18th century. For one and half Euros, you can take a lift to the roof of this church and from there, you have a wonderful view of Las Palmas and the harbour front.

Shopping in Las Palmas

Trianna shopping area

A bus ride from Playa del Ingles to Las Palmas takes about 50 minutes and costs just over five Euros.What would a trip to Las Palmas be without a bit of shopping involved? One of the main shopping areas, which I really enjoy, was walking along Trianna, a pedestrian walkway lined with small shops, name brand stories and restaurants. If you look up the side streets that run off of Trianna, there are many more small cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating and umbrellas for protection against the sun.

Based on directions from the Information Kiosk, I walked up one these side streets in order to get to the post office to mail a package home to Ottawa. Not only did I find the Post Office, but did quite well in my faltering Spanish to explain what I wanted to do. It went pretty well, but I had rehearsed! As I walked up the side street, I found many people seated at various cafes enjoying a breakfast or coffee with friends or co-workers. Along the way I stopped for a Cappuccino and noticed that the cafe I had selected was also Vegan, one of the only ones I’ve encountered to date on Gran Canaria. My daughter and son-in-law would be pleased!

Flamenco

Back at the hotel, Eugenia Victoria, I was pleased to see that the entertainment for the evening was Flamenco!

 

 

Galdar’s Archaeological Museum

A Bit About Galdar

Galdar is located on Gran Canaria island at its most northern tip. To get to Galdar from Playa del Ingles, I took a bus to the capital, Las Palmas, and from there another bus to Galdar. All together the trip was about an hour and a half. Galdar is called the “first capital of Gran Canaria” because in the time before the arrival of the Europeans, this was the capital for the indigenous people of Gran Canaria, called “Agaldar” back then. The location of the Archaeological Museum and Park, is the actual site of the ancient village of Agaldar and its impressive “Painted Cave”. The photo to the left in Galdar is a monument to the “Native Princesses”.

The Indigenous People of Gran Canaria

Much evidence and research traces the Indigenous peoples of Gran Canaria to being descendants of the Berbers from North Africa about 3,000 years ago. When the Europeans arrived in the Canaries in the 14th and 15th centuries there were about 30 indigenous villages spread throughout the island with about 20,000 people populating them. Only 3,000 indigenous people survived the Spanish colonization.

The Ancient Village of Agaldar and the Archaeological Site

A cave dwelling dug our of volcanic rock

The ancient village of Agaldar was occupied from the 7th to the 16th centuries, with the best documented periods falling into the latter part of this era. The archaeological site comprises a group of man-made caves, known as the Troglodyte Complex, and within its centre is the decorated  chamber, the “Painted Cave” or in Spanish, the “Cueva Pintada”.

Example of a semi-underground house

The cave dwellings were dug out of the volcanic rock. Another type of dwelling within the village were semi-underground houses, houses that were started underground, then compressed volcanic rock was often used to build up the walls.

The archaeological site with roof and walkway

The entire archaeological site is protected with a roof over it and with access through its entirety with raised walkways. Several elevators allow visitors with mobility issues access to the whole site, as there are several stairs to climb.

“The Painted Cave” Photo credit: Museo Y Parque Arqueologico

The highlight of the guided tour through this archaeological site was visiting the painted cave, which is completely surrounded by glass to prevent any further deterioration of its painted portions. When the cave was discovered, it contained mummies, pottery and other archaeological items. It is estimated that this cave was painted in the 12th century; it is the most complex example of indigenous mural painting in Gran Canaria.

It is thought that this cave was used for special rituals related to burial ceremonies and offerings.In ancient cultures, oftentimes items are buried with the dead for the afterlife. Since this indigenous culture did not have a writing system, much is speculation.

Statue honouring indigenous women

This indigenous people had herds of goats, grew crops of barley, wheat, beans, peas, and lentils. They also ate figs and dates and preserved food with the use of salt. Within the museum portion of this site, there are many ceramic objects made by the indigenous people. Their pottery was hand made, with perfect shaping and symmetry and often decorated with geometrical shapes, circles, triangles and squares. Ceramic items were often used for storage or the preparation of food. There is a growing interest in the indigenous peoples as evidenced by the large group that took part in the guided tour and the many questions asked of our guide. The guide himself admitted that there is still a lot to learn about the indigenous peoples of Gran Canaria.

 

 

 

 

 

A Tour of Gran Canaria

From Play del Ingles, in the south, to San Bartolome de Tirajana

View of Fataga Valley

This “VIP Tour” was organized by Viajes Tara, with tour guide extraordinaire, Gary. First stop was at a lookout called Degollada de las Yeguas. And what a view it was. From the south side, one can see cars winding up the road to the lookout from Playa del Ingles. Looking North, the Fataga Valley stretches out for several kilometres, leading to the small village of Fataga. Here the landscape is semi-arid.

 

Another View of the Fataga Valley

In the middle of this photo you see the hightest peak on Gran Canaria, Pico de las Nieves

 

Another stop along this tour was to try to catch a glimpse of the highest peak on Gran Canaria, Pico de las Nieves, at a height of 1,949 metres above sea level. And we were lucky! High above the clouds, we were able to get a glimpse of it. Close to this peak is a military base.We stopped at Villa de San Bartolome de Tirajana, or for short Tuntes, to get this photo. There are many cyclists biking to within a short distance of Pico de las Nieves. Many, I believe are getting in shape for the Tour de France. I can’t imagine myself biking up these steep roads with their hairpin turns. Our tour guide pointed out that he hasn’t seen one cyclist with a smile, and no wonder, considering the effort they must expend in reaching their destination. My hat is off to them!

On to Tejeda, Teror and an Aloe Vera Plantation

Rugged valley and peaks

We headed north-west towards Tejeda, a village that sits on the eastern side of a volcanic crater. Along the way to Tejeda, we stopped to take photos, and I was lucky to get this one that captures the rugged nature of the area with its peaks and valleys.

Tejeda is located almost at the centre of Gran Canaria, in a very mountainous area. By the way, we traveled in small mini-buses, carrying eight people plus driver. I was very glad of a smaller vehicle, when I think of the narrow roads and hair-pin turns, it must be a challenge for the larger tour buses.

The photo above is taken from Tejeda and shows sharp peaks and deep valleys, evidence of volcanic action. In the upper right-hand corner of the photo is Rock Bentayga, located inside the volcanic caldera of Tejeda. Near this rock were ancient aboriginal settlements of the Guanches, the indigenous people of the island.

Taken from Tejeda as the clouds drifted in

Blaconies of Teror

Going further north-west from Tejeda, we made a few more stops, one to the charming town of Teror with its Canarian-style pine balconies; it is under monument protection. The town became particularly well known after shepherds witnessed an apparition of the Virgin in 1481; it then became the most important pilgrimage place in the Canaries.

 

Aloe vera at Fincas Canarias

Last stop on the tour was to see an aloe vera plantation, a product the Canaries are famous for. At Fincas Canarias, we not only got to see the aloe vera growing in green houses( they have around 30,000 plants that are between 10 to 30 years old) but a explanation of its properties and benefits for the skin. Fincas Canarias is a family business dedicated to the ecological  cultivation of aloe vera.